Dyno Tune

Does not having cats result in more fumes in the cabin?

I do not smell fuel in my cabin, but occasionally when I get on it pretty heard and come to an abrubt stop and the windows are down I can smell a little fuel.

Love it :)

I don't smell it inside cab, when starting up in garage you can smell it some, but mine is pig rich at idle!

So...I just buy an X or H offroad pipe and bring it to a shop to have welded on basically?

Here are some I found

What about this one?:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jba-offroad-highflow-hpipe-2011gt.html

Or another that has more to it:
http://www.mrt-direct.com/93a601.html

From reading, my impression is that I might like the H pipe better than X.

No, the O/R X is a direct replacement for your current factory X with cats and bolts right up. This is something you can do yourself in the garage on jackstands, although easier on a lift

http://www.lethalperformance.com/2011-shelby-gt500-exhaust-mid-pipes-lethal-performance-c-8485_8846_8884_8889/lethal-performance-2011-gt500-3-offroad-x-pipe-p-35117




I believe there is no current H pipe that is a complete midpipe, so that one yes would need to be welded in

Just checked your links, Yes the first H pipe would need to be welded in. The second link is for the 2007-2010 GT500, the piping diameter is different than your 2011. I would stick to the exhaust that is specific to your model year to avoid any fitment issues.

also something to consider is what do you want it to sound like. an x will make it raspy while and H will make it rumble. a prochamber will rumble even more than an H

Dont believe they make prochamber exhaust for our GT500s

Shelby10' wrote:This is something you can do yourself in the garage on jackstands, although easier on a lift

Now THAT is what I like to hear! I'll have to keep looking around, I would prefer a full H midpipe.

Might PM this guy and see what H pipe this is. Good deal possibly

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/exhaust-283/806525-fs-2011-gt500-h-pipe.html

EDIT: NEVERMIND, this is the STOCK H pipe off the '11

yea to my knowledge there is not a complete aftermarket H-Pipe available for the 11-12 GT500s...

Never heard of this brand, it has cats though, anyone care to comment?
http://www.cruizinconceptswholesale.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MBRP-S7218304-HPIPE

Hey look what I found, a complete offroad H midpipe assembly?

http://www.cruizinconceptswholesale.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MBRP-S7214409-HPIPE

Do we have a winner?

Yes, you could use the MBRP H pipe but a shop would have to modify the slip joint or make an adapter. Our exhaust ('11+) is 2.75" diameter while the MBRP is 3". I have considered this route as well. Problem is shops get real buggy when messing with anything that deletes cats due to the fines involved. Let us know if you go this route and what you did to make it work.

So that one is not just a "bolt on" I could do myself like some of the x pipe setups?

Which part of the exhaust (in pic) is slip joint you are referring to? On the website, it states it is specifically for 2011-2012. The 'left" part of the image has narrower ends, presumably 2.75"?

Correct, their mid pipe is made to mate specifically with their axle back exhaust. The flanges (left) will bolt right up to the manifolds but the slip joints (right)are slightly larger 3" than the OEM 2.75"axle pipes.

Thanks for the info Chad, learn something new about these cars and the products for them everyday

cjgt500 wrote:Correct, their mid pipe is made to mate specifically with their axle back exhaust. The flanges (left) will bolt right up to the manifolds but the slip joints (right)are slightly larger 3" than the OEM 2.75"axle pipes.

True.

You can possibly get a shop to take your factory exhaust and expand the piping to 3" to go over the midpipe, but like said earlier, not having Cats can make some shops iffy. If you install the midpipe and run straight pipes to the shop they may be more willing. As long as the shop itself doesn't remove the cats, they are usually fine with it since the liability is lifted.

just buy the catback too

I"m gonna hold off on any new stuff for now. I'm pretty bummed about my front wheel situation . Harmonic vibration shakes through the whole car once I hit about 60. I think one of my front rims are mis-shapen. That's gonna suck if I"m gonna have to pay 700 bucks for a new rim. No wonder I got such a good deal lol.

Also still have the knocking noise if I do a slight turn. Haven't had time to have it checked out yet.

EDIT: 900 for a new rim ouch.

if the knocking noise is from the front i have a pretty good idea what it is now that ive had time to think about it. when i first got my car i had a knocking and occasionally a rattle from my front end. come to find out that the main bolt on my passenger side lower control arm had come loose and was trying to back out. id put her up on jacks and give everything a solid shake and looking over

You need to get a roadforce balance on your wheels/tires before you do anything. If its off real bad it will tell you if its a tire or a bad rim.

I've had the tires balanced twice with two sets of tires. The last guy said my front right rim is not round...and he had major troubles getting it to balance on the machine. It's probably the root of my front end problems.

I don't notice it at 150 mph though!

Again ask if your getting roadforce balance, if they don't have roadforce balance machine your wasting your time there!!!!!!

You know I'm pretty sure it wasn't road force, I did not observer anything that touched the wheel.

I"m gonna possibly get a lifetime alignment at Firestone by my house...I"ll ask them while they are at it.

Also, I was thinking of finding someone with whom I can swap out my front wheels with. Then if vibration goes away, I know it was mine.

With the three piece rim like the Asanti's you can get the outer or inner barrel replaced whichever is bent for much less than a new wheel I would think. Of course you would have to use some wheel while it is off getting repaired.

20" steely...