Dyno Tune

I am thinking I might want to simply get my car dyno tuned rather than an emailed tune. Is there anyone around OK that does this, and GOOD? Also what is the cost?

I read this about lund tune and it kinda turned me off. I can see where this guy is coming from, I emailed jon lund once and he never responded.

http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-2011-mustangs/599489-vmp-tuning-any-good-need-new-whipple-tune.html

#1 that is a whippled 5.0 lund tune and has nothing to do with a GT500, different computer and perimeters altogether, so dont expect the same problems

#2 if the guy would just talk to Lund and send him his datalogs he would get this corrected, I am not sure why hes not getting a response maybe he needs to call and quit emailing. Also I would go through Van at Revan Racing and let him deal with Lund personally...I garuntee a response.

#3 You cant read one bad review and ignore the 300 great ones.

As for a Dyno Tune: Kurtis at Archangel is your guy here in Tulsa, he can write you a tune specific to your needs. Call him for pricing, depends on time on the dyno and other factors. His tunes are safe and produce good numbers. David McKay is running his tune in his 07 GT500

I found this place in OKC

http://www.xp-racing.com/

Will a dyno tune here, for example, be BETTER than an email tune from anyone? Just curious...will they be able to fine tune it a little better? My guess is that all cars are slightly different, but not sure how precise dyno tunings are or how much time is spent perfecting them.

Kurtis at Archangel can fix you up.

since no one wants to give a valid answer. here it is. dyno tunes are always the way to go. they make more power and are better then a canned or email tune. you can run a car on the absolute ragged edge with a dyno tune. wont be doing that on email or canned.

the only limiting factor is the skill of the tuner.

ive had canned tunes and email tunes and i can tell you i will NEVER EVER run either ever again. dyno tunes the only tunes for me!!

Kurtis at Archangel. He can do it.

Sounds like Kurtis is the go to guy in Tulsa. Now I have to decide whether to drive to Tulsa and do this or try the OKC guys.

I don't have access to a lift so I'm gonna have to check into a shop to install my new clutch. I"ll probably just do my pulley and idler at a friends garage, but the clutch seems to be a messy job.

Now, if Lee ever gets me my carbon fiber parts :-), maybe I could just bring my entire load to Tulsa and buy a couple guys a lot of beer to help me do some mods? :-) Payment = Unlimited and food too.

I would trust Kurtis over anyone else if OKC honestly. I myself have a lund tune on the tvs and now the kb. I have never spoken or emailed lund one time, always deal with Van at revan racing. Lund can do remote dyno tuning with Kurtis also.

ARMORINE wrote:since no one wants to give a valid answer. here it is. dyno tunes are always the way to go. they make more power and are better then a canned or email tune. you can run a car on the absolute ragged edge with a dyno tune. wont be doing that on email or canned.

the only limiting factor is the skill of the tuner.

ive had canned tunes and email tunes and i can tell you i will NEVER EVER run either ever again. dyno tunes the only tunes for me!!

A tuner such as Lund who has tuned hundreds of GT500s has a pretty darn good idea on where the limits are for the Shelby GT500 and knows how to replicate them. Ragged edge? I dont believe any of us want to be on the ragged edge as we dont need to be. We have enough power that our tires have become useless.

What Fluffer said here rings VOLUMES "the only limiting factor is the skill of the tuner"....... let me clarify: A tuner that does not know what he is doing or "thinks he knows what hes doing" can DESTROY your motor. A Dyno tune is definitely a great way to dial in the car given that an experienced and seriously good tuner is doing the adjustments. I have seen dyno sheet after dyno sheet after dyno sheet of Lunds tunes for our GT500s across the web where others have checked Lunds work and they are SPOT ON and SAFE. Can you squeeze out a few more ponies if you had lund present and access to a dyno...sure, but do you really need it or even want to flirt with detonation?

With that being said, Kurtis is your guy here in Tulsa to do the dyno tuning. I, as well as the club, trust him. Stay away from anyone in OKC unless you want to risk the car going lean and a rod putting a window in your block.

I hope I am not coming off as rude here, but tuning is a serious endeavor and I want you to understand what "Could" happen if you let just anyone tinker with your cars computer. If you have any questions feel free to ask as we will always tell it to you straight.

I think I will go through Van with a Lund tune. That way I can get customer service and be in contact, even if Mr. Lund himself is too busy to talk to me directly. I can always start with that and get it optimized later if need be.

I'm about to pull the trigger on pulley + idler + tune package, stock look (so warranty guys won't even notice lol). Am wavering on the 10% OD balancer. If it can add substantial power...I think I'll do it. Just max out this stock blower (minus a porting job) and call it good. If I ever buy an aftermarket, I"ll just skip right over Ford or VMP and go straight to whipple or kb! I'm an "all the way" type of guy LOL. That said, Van says he can get me pulley idler tune + IW 10% blancer for 1025 total. That is still WAY less than a new supercharger. Worth it to me I think. With all that, my car should totally rock...can't wait!

Since I have the cobrajet TB, do you guys think I should upgrade to a bigger elbow? IDK.

A visit to Kurtis would still be a good idea even if you decide to go with Van and Lund. I myself am going to run on Kurtis's dyno and datalog to see where the tune is currently at. My car is running a tad rich, so I will need to send my dyno sheet, A/F reading, and datalog to Van afterwards for Lund to make his adjustments.

You could also get a tune from Kurtis as well. Could have a 91 Lund and 91 Archangel tune, see which one you like better.

Just a thought

Cant help you on the 10% or elbow as I can not say first hand on whether they are worth it or not. Paul has one and seems to really like it, it should add about 3lbs of boost and I am also not sure how much you would benefit from the Elbow without porting the blower. This is foreign territory for me.

I have been running a lower for a couple of years now, your h.p. gain wont be nearly as noticeable as you torque, your numbers will square up, in some cases I have seen them a little over square. My car is an 07 so it was imperative that the lower was changed out.I have seen several crank failures along with grenading oil pumps,the one common denominator....all had the 10 or 15 % pulley. It was not manufacture specific. Is this a concern, may be to early to tell. Is it the way they are being driven or is their a problem. I pretty sure most of the breaks and fractures that i have seen had bigger blowers on the cars.Even so this still a concern to myself. The guys who are rebuilding these are using the cobra jet cranks with two keys machined in the snout verses one. I dont think you would have problem with a lower and the stock blower. This is the chance we all take we feel the need for more power.

I talked with another guy, "BJ" from GT500 forum, he seemed very knowledgeable and suggested I hold off on the lower as the jury is out on how safe they are. Good...I didn't want to spend 600 on one anyway :-)

BJ is a knowledgeable guy and has a lot of 1/4 runs under his belt, I have had a few conversations with him as well

Just chatted with Van, he says Eibach springs seriously ride like crap. He sells BMR and says they would be good. Thoughts? Also, I"m wondering if I should lower only the rear. My front is already so low, and not much room in wheel well that I can tell. Rear wells have tons of room. I assume you have to get the caster/camber plates for front lowerings...but what about rear, does that require anything else suspension-wise?

Also, what about rear tires. I could get a higher profile tire to fill in the gap. Also, I heard larger tires (sidwall) would hook better. Would that be a major "faux pas" to have two different tire profiles front to back?

So, should I
A) Get full set of lowering springs, apply to front and back.
B) Lower just back
C) Get taller/bigger sidewall tires for back (and also go to 315's).

I just lowered the rear of my car. I like it, but it does sit different. The hood looks longer. You will need an adjustable pan hard bar if you lower. I went back with the same size tires as stock albeit w/ Nittos.

Option "A" with an adjustable panhard bar as mentioned. Also if you have the SVTP package Shelby you already have a different spring from the standard Shelby offering IIRC.

Id go with "A" as well. Id trust Vans opinion on handling, guy is a road racing maniac.I went with the FRPP and like them

Got my car dyno'd at "Xp Racing" today in OKC.

Best was 633 hp and 602 torque. I"m very pleased...especially considering 100% stock exhaust.

Very nice numbers!

One thing I did not think of was those oversized tires I have on right now. I wonder what dropping 1.5" tire radius and 3 lbs each will do. I assume torque might go up with smaller diameter.

Numbers are just that...Numbers. Your over 600rwhp and torque, true test of power is at the dragstrip :)

Good numbers, off road x pipe will pick up another 10-15 easy!

yea, time to start modding that exhaust and dropping some weight...

They have a dynojet right?

Yes I'm thinking next thing might be x or h pipe, not sure how it will sound and function without cats. Will that drop a lot of weight too? If I go that route, would it be counterproductive to keep my stock axle back setup? If not, what brand I'm looking for deep sound not to terribly loud.

amentowasso wrote:yea, time to start modding that exhaust and dropping some weight...

They have a dynojet right?

Yes, it is a dynojet. He seemed pretty knowledgeable. I'm uploading to youtube now.

will have to pull that up on my phone in a minute...

I've seen exhaust go both ways. Some are lighter than factory, some are heavier...

I would run it with stock mufflers first and see how you like it. I run mine with stock mufflers, doesn't sound bad. Its not loud inside the vehicle and thats all I really care about.

Losing the catalytic converters is where you are dropping weight, Like David said i would leave the factory axleback as it will be extremely loud if you change it. I added resonators just before the axle in mine to soften the sound and get rid of the popping. I have a lethal performance O/R X pipe and factory axleback.