New supercharger or not? Hmm....

Ask Fluffer what he thinks of drive shafts.....

Go with the tvs,this will give you a great platform to build from.The potential from the tvs is crazy. As you go you can add mods that compliment the tvs. If you go tvs you should be ready to do suspension pretty quick as the stock suspension will suffer greatly with the added power and torque. Careful though all that power is WAY additive. Good luck and have fun. By the way dont waste money on a driveshaft till you reach 650 rwhp

Thanks Chris. Yeah actually I already have the Heat Exchanger installed. But I just stuck the driveshaft in there to show how much extra I could get. I am quite leary of them.

Maybe I could have my rear rims widened to 11's and then get some 315's on the back? IDK...maybe wider is not necessarily better, although I'm sure it would help. Maybe I just need a good set of rear tires that are more sticky and my 285's would be plenty.

I would say package b with upper and lower rear control arms. Got to get
rid of wheel hop before anything. I ran my tvs with stock driveshaft and
heat exchanger for couple years now with no problems.

Duh! I forgot you just installed the HE.

Leonard 95 wrote:I would say package b with upper and lower rear control arms. Got to get
rid of wheel hop before anything. I ran my tvs with stock driveshaft and
heat exchanger for couple years now with no problems.

I just have not experienced any wheel hop yet.

You guys are not making it easy on me lol. Those carbon side skirts and front splitter look killer.

Decisiones Decisiones

I would be leaning towards the TVS and look to get the other stuff a little at a time. And like others have said, upper control arms and tires will be in your future.

Hey all I found a guy selling the following:

VMP tvs + 2.5" pulley
Whipple cold air intake
L&M 66 mm throttle body
80lb injectors

What should I offer him?? He already is in possession of a Kenne Bell but decided it was over kill and was gonna sell, but might keep it now if he can sell the other stuff.

I really don't need a whipple cold air intake (do I?) He says at the time it was the biggest CAI you could get.

The VMP TVS with elbow costs about 3500 new.
The L&M 66mm TB costs about 535 new.
80 lb injectors about 450 new. (wouldn't have to worry about duty% cobradoc :-)

Man I just want the TVS! Maybe offer 2500 for TVS + TB? But he wants to sell package deal I guess. More research.

Update: Here is a pic under his hood of what I would be getting:

Tough decisions.

Go for a ride with someone who has a tvs and your will make up your mind pretty quick. You will need a boost a pump at minimum, as you will most likely start to run out of fuel. I personally am not a big fan of boost a pumps but there are tons of people running them with no problems. The alternative to a boost a pump is fairly pricey. The tvs loves air so I would say yes to the larger cai, do it right and do it once and you will enjoy it. The car will retain its drivability and be a wolf when you romp on it!!

Cool thanks Rick. I am leaning heavily this way...just have not extended an offer to him yet.

His package comes with 80 lb injectors...so would that negate the need for a boost a pump? I"m not too familiar with them.

Yes, you will still need a boost a pump to get that added fuel. IMO anything under 3k for that set up is a pretty good deal.Dont forget you will need to strap that thing to a dyno for optimum performance and tuning.

shelbyrick wrote:Yes, you will still need a boost a pump to get that added fuel. IMO anything under 3k for that set up is a pretty good deal.Dont forget you will need to strap that thing to a dyno for optimum performance and tuning.

I am going to offer him 2500 and see what happens. If he comes back higher, I would rather just remove a part out of the bundle. Should I sacrifice the 80 lb injectors or the L&M TB?

I was gonna do a jon lund tune...or are you saying I should also do dyno somewhere?

EDIT: Just sent him offer for $2500 for all, or $2000 for TVS (pulley/elbow) + CAI. Between fuel injectors and throttle body...maybe I don't need injectors? I could use that to bargain with.

Ummm...he didn't like my offer AT ALL. LOL.

Not sure if you can get away with stock injectors with that big of a cai and a the 66mm throtle body, I am imagine you would be pretty close to the edge. Thats the nice thing about a dyno you will be able to see where everything is on your car,it will eliminate the guess work, lund can still tune your car as long as whoever is dynoing it is willing to work with him remotely.

Never dynoed anything before so this is all new. So I bring it in to be dynoed...and they do NOT tune it there?

Had the same guy dyno and install his tune in my car. If you want a lund tune you can get a tune emailed from him to load in your car and it will be close. If you want you can then go to a dyno hook you car up send the data logs to lund,he will then adjust his tune for your car and email the adjustments to the guy running the dyno to install. Never had this done myself but this is my understanding in the process of a remote tune,someone else on this forum may be more educated in this process than myself. I had a local guy handle the whole process, car runs great no problems makes 701rwhp/689fpt

With 80 lb injectors a stock fuel system and a BAP you will be in the mid 90% on pump duty cycle.

cobradoc wrote:With 80 lb injectors a stock fuel system and a BAP you will be in the mid 90% on pump duty cycle.

So lets say I got a TVS, what do I NEED to be safe?

Decent thread

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/shelby-gt500-150/751273-stock-2011-2012-gt500-fuel-system-qs.html

"So what the fellow up above is saying the 2011 FPDM has the ability to not only increase duty cycle (like all model years) but also to increase voltage there by eliminating the need for a BAP."

Sounds like a good deal to me!

Its still a good idea to talk with Lund and Kurtis to discuss fuel options. I suggest you Run her on Kurtis's dyno after the install like others have suggested and check duty cycle on the pumps and injectors along with Air/Fuel. Better safe than sorry.

At that point if you are on the edge with fuel, I would suggest the upgrades as mentioned by doc and rick.

Even though the 11+ GT500s have the ability to increase voltage, I still wouldnt trust it until I saw the numbers on a Dyno or datalog.

Rick and Doc have more experience than I in this department, so take their advice.

Yep. Ditto

As of tonight, I"m thinking Pulley + tune kit. My thinking is that in a few years, I would much rather soup up a 5.8 liter or whatever the car will be at that time. And if i'm gonna go THAT far, I might as well go all the way with a big kenne bell or whipple rather than a ford or vmp.

The torque and drivabillity of the tvs is what makes it shine compared to the other blowers, but irregardless of which one you pick getting it to hook is going to be the issue, once you start making power the trick is getting it to the ground,I myself have not figured that out as of yet.

When you figure out the traction secret Rick, please tell the rest of us!

My shelby trys to put me in a ditch at WOT and I have nowhere near the power that you have!! Keeping these cars straight is a full time job.

Just picked up a Cobra Jet 65mm throttle body for 400 bucks shipped. Figured at that price I need it lol. Will go nice with my pulley and tune. I"m still very undecided about the 10% overdrive pulley. It's damn expensive but does add a few more PSI...worth it?

I like mine! ;)

Also, keep in mind... when flashing the new tune, most of the 2011 guys needed to have the there computers completly reset (dealer only) . There are some details on this on SVTP.

Do you have a link for more info on that Paul? I thought I would just get the tuner and tune, push a few buttons and it would be done.

Ok, latest iteration.

I found a posi ported stock blower, not sure what year it is from, it is black. Unused since port a guy with VMP is selling it. Comes with port matched larger VMP Elbow, and 2.59" stock look pulley. $900.00.

So, lets say I ported my own. 580 + 300 for elbow + 150 pulley = over 1000. So, if I bought this already ported blower + the parts it comes with, I could sell my stock one.

My main concern is, is there anything wrong with a year or two older blower? I don't know if they changed ANYTHING except the color?

So I could potentially have a ported blower, larger TB, pulley and tune. I think that might do me just fine. If I sold my stock blower, it would offset the cost of buying this ported one.