My Fox Body
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My Fox Body
Hey whats up guys? I figured I will just make a thread instead of posting a new topic all the time and clogging my brain where i posted my last question..
So since I have had my car the oil pressure gauge likes to bounce. I looked at the sending unit and the wire is a little frayed and melted. today I am going to hook up a mechanical gauge andsee if its the worst possible or just an electrical glitch... I need to know what size fitting to throw on the end of the gauge tube. Any ideas...
btw if anyone has any parts laying around let me know.. Also i dont know if i mentioned I went back to the dyno after some more maintenance and the car threw down 253rwhp and 287tq
So since I have had my car the oil pressure gauge likes to bounce. I looked at the sending unit and the wire is a little frayed and melted. today I am going to hook up a mechanical gauge andsee if its the worst possible or just an electrical glitch... I need to know what size fitting to throw on the end of the gauge tube. Any ideas...
btw if anyone has any parts laying around let me know.. Also i dont know if i mentioned I went back to the dyno after some more maintenance and the car threw down 253rwhp and 287tq
Tha Skinny- BMMC Enthusiast
- Number of posts : 167
Age : 42
Location : Owasso,Oklahoma
Car Type : 1995 sc 5.0
First Name : Chris
Registration date : 2011-06-21
Re: My Fox Body
nice numbers! No fox parts here, but I'll keep an eye out. Does this mean you decided to keep it?
Personally, I would suggest against a mechanical gauge, but that's just my personal preference. Boost/Vac is about the only thing I would run mechanical on. The thought of a line busting and sending hot oil all over the interior never seemed to appeasing to me.
Credit this to StangNet:
Hope that helps. It uses a T fitting so that the stock gauge doesn't look lifeless.
Personally, I would suggest against a mechanical gauge, but that's just my personal preference. Boost/Vac is about the only thing I would run mechanical on. The thought of a line busting and sending hot oil all over the interior never seemed to appeasing to me.
Credit this to StangNet:
1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light brown/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light brown/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light brown/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.
Hope that helps. It uses a T fitting so that the stock gauge doesn't look lifeless.
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