road racing suspension?

amentowasso wrote:According to Jarrod 1.0's search text, these people:

Correct

I agree with myself.

07Shelby500 wrote:I agree with myself.

I agree with you agree with yourself.

I agree with you agreeing with me agreeing.

back on track ;)


what does everyone think about these prices:

MM CC plates, almost new, $100
QA1 bump steer kit, $60
MM 4 point chassis brace (k-member), $60
Brake cables to adapt SN95 rear brakes to Fox e-brake, $50 for both
SVO master cylinder and SVO prop valve $200
drilled and slotted rotors all 4, 11" with new ceramic pads from a SN95 to convert to 5 lug, $130

I think it sounds pretty fair. Master Cylinder might be a tad high.

I think they look good. The master cyl is ok price with the adj prop valve.

Let me take it for 4 laps then average those times when you can hit that time every trip out then upgrade it. I am kinda saying a driver mod is usually the best money spent. I kinda know a guy that can get you some track time too. And BTW that V6 comment was out of line lol any one else here have a 1:34.9 timeslip at Hallett in a V6 automatic N/A? or how about even a GT N/A for that matter.

U da man George!

George gives good.... deals!

pony74055 wrote:Let me take it for 4 laps then average those times when you can hit that time every trip out then upgrade it. I am kinda saying a driver mod is usually the best money spent. I kinda know a guy that can get you some track time too. And BTW that V6 comment was out of line lol any one else here have a 1:34.9 timeslip at Hallett in a V6 automatic N/A? or how about even a GT N/A for that matter.

wish we were living in tulsa, but that's a ways off. shoot i wish i were even in the states now to drive the car. thanks for the offer george i'll keep that in mind when/if we move back to the area

so here's the deal i came up with:

MM CC plates, almost new, $100
QA1 bump steer kit, $60
MM 4 point chassis brace (k-member), $60
Brake cables to adapt SN95 rear brakes to Fox e-brake, $50 for both
SVO master cylinder and SVO prop valve $200
pads, rotors, calipers, and spindles. Calipers are stock 94 GT, rotors are drilled/slotted aftermarket (? brand), pads are partstore ceramics relatively new (less than 5K miles IMO)$230
explorer intake is an awesome upgrade for a stock SD motor, specialy a 86. You will see a huge difference 3K rpm plus.

We can do all of the above including the Explorer intake for $700.

also finding out about some springs, but that will depend on which ones and what the drop is with them.


looks like i'll still need to find lca's, poly bushings for everything, and either a 6pt roll bar or subframe connectors, shocks/struts, wheels/tires. am i missing anything and is $700 a good enough deal w/ the intake.

You might also consider the explored GT-40P heads or at least a set of 87-93 E7TE heads. The 86 had smaller valves. You won't see as much gain with that explorer intake without a head swap. Also you'd want a 65mm TB. I personally would also see about converting from speed density to mass air if you go changing too much in the performance side. You can do it on the cheap if you can find parts in a salvage. I've done the conversion twice and spliced new wires into the harness. You'll need some extra lines 4-5 with the connectors to plug into the harness where it terminates at the computer. You'll need the mass air meter housing, sensor, and plug, and either an A9L or A9P computer (if my memory serves) one is for a manual and one is for an auto but both can be used on a stick car. Some say the A9P auto one has a more radical timing curve built into it. You'll also need to change from the BAP sensor to MAP sensor on the firewall. If you don't go the cheap route FRPP offers a kit I believe. Since the pony car didn't get mass air until 89 and 88 California.

Oh and you'll want mire fuel after upgrading your performance parts. Here's a trick. If you get a fuel pump for a 93 cobra from the parts store they have a higher flow rate as the 93 cobra had 24lb inj and GT-40 heads/intake (cobra)

after asking some questions i found out that the brakes i was given from a 90 fox are the same diameter (11") as the 94 brakes he's selling. biggest difference is the 5 lug conversion which i could worry about later.

can someone confirm this?

Not sure. Seems like 87-up maybe same size. The 86 may be smaller. And of course the biggest difference is the disk rear. Those drums suck. Lol

yeah, but they would work till she really actually needs some significantly better brakes. for now we're really wanting to make sure it looks presentable and get the suspension/chassis completed. after a year or so of tracking the car she'll probably feel more comfortable with really pushing it, but as of now she's never raced anything in any type of race.

Like i said, got these 03 cobra spindles and hubs. Tyler has them right now, he will prolly make you a good deal...

so will the spindles and hubs fit a fox and if so what kind of wheel clearance would we have to have for them to work. 17's maybe? i really think we'll just stay with the pony wheels we have now until we are ready to move over to the 5 lug equipment. i'm not big into buying things more than once if i can help it.

good write up on the conversion

http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7038

the 96-up spindles are 8.1mm longer on each side, and about 1.02" lower

sweet thanks for the link

I just wanted to throw my 2 cents in about the brakes...slotted and drilled rotors are over rated and not worth the time and money...you actually lose brake power from slotted and drilled rotors..hence why no actual race cars have them.

You lose contact surface from them being drilled and slotted thus losing braking power. The only reason rotors used to be drilled was being years ago the brake pads used to have a type of glue that held the friction pad to the metal pad and once that pad would get hot the glue would release gases and would get stuck between the pad and rotor thus giving brake fade. Well needless to say newer pads don't do that anymore and work much much better.

I've got Cobra brakes on my car with a prop valve, stainless steel lines and DOT5.1 brake fluid, and 13 inch Brembo rotors and this things stop soooooo much better. With the DOT5.1 the fluid won't boil till about 600*+. For shits and giggles a couple of weeks ago I wanted to see how good my brakes were...did some hard braking going from 110MPH to 20MPH four times back to back and the brakes never faded or became inconstant...it was glorious!!

i knew slotted and drilled wasn't really needed. i've heard of quite a few people actually having issues with slotted & drilled rotors starting to get cracks in them with track use.

Yup less material to to help dissipate heat.

Oh I don't remember if you said sub frame connectors or not...a must for that year.

haven't found any yet, but they are on the list. if money permits so will either a 4pt or 6pt roll bar

Good points guys. However, these are becoming really popular!

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1

I WANT SOME!!

oooh I just ordered two sets for the V6! Can't wait to put them on... Detailed review coming soon!