FS: 2004 Mach 1, Black, 5-Speed, OK, $8500 OBO

I BOUGHT THE CAR IN FEBRUARY OF 2005, I AM THE SECOND OWNER, IT HAD 7759K MILES ON THE ODOMETER THEN. CURRENT READING IS JUST OVER 52,xxx. SHE’S NEVER BEEN RUN AT ANY TYPE OF TRACK. SHE IS NOT “A MINT SHOWCAR” BUT SHE IS NOWHERE CLOSE BEING DEEMED A “BEATER” EITHER. SHE HAS BEEN A DAILY DRIVEN STREET CAR. HAS BEEN GARAGED MOST OF HER LIFE, BUT SHE HAS SEEN RAIN, SNOW, AND ICE

THE STORY: I HAD ALWAYS HAD THE OIL CHANGED EVERY 2K-3K MILES, BUT RECENTLY MY MOM WAS DIAGNOSED WITH AN UN-CURABLE BRAIN DISEASE IN THE DYMENSIA GROUP. DUE TO THAT, AND LIFE GOING ON, MY BRAIN FORGOT TO TELL ME TO CHANGE THE OIL ON HER. I WENT FOR AROUND 8K MILES WITHOUT AN OIL CHANGE. THIS CAUSED A LOSS OF OIL (SHE’S NEVER HAD ANY LEAKS OF ANY KIND, EVER) TO THE POINT WHERE THE LIFTERS RUBBED. I HAD HER FLUSHED AND TOPPED OFF BY MY FORD DEALERSHIP, ONLY TO FIND THAT THE DAMAGE WAS DONE. ON THE FLUSH OF THE OLD OIL, NO METAL SHAVINGS CAME OUT, BUT THE OIL DID HAVE A NICE METALLIC SHEEN TO IT. ACCORDING TO THE TECH AT THE FORD DEALERSHIP (AND OTHERS LOCALLY AND ON FORUMS AGREED) THE CAM ASSEMBLY IS TOAST (JOURNALS NEED TO BE WELDED) AND POSSIBLY THE HEADS TOO. LET ME MAKE THIS CLEAR: I AM NOT A MECHANIC. I CANNOT TELL YOU EXACTLY WHAT IS DAMAGED AND WHAT IS NOT. THE ENGINE HAS NOT BEEN TORN DOWN ENOUGH TO DETERMINE EXACTLY WHAT NEEDS TO BE REPAIRED OR REPLACED, SO THE ENGINE WOULD NEED TO BE OVERHAULED OR REPLACED WITH ANOTHER ONE.

MY REASON FOR THE SALE: I WAS GOING TO DROP IN AN ALUMINATOR 8:5 AND ADD A WHIPPLE 2.9, WITH A D&D MAGNUM T56, AND THE WHOLE NINE YARDS, BUT FELL INTO A GOOD DEAL WITH AN 03 COBRA. SO SHE MUST GO. BUYER WILL NEED TO HAVE HER TOWED/HAULED/SHIPPED, AS SHE DOES NOT RUN

IT HAS A CLEAR CLEAN TITLE, ALTHOUGH IT IS A DUPLICATE AS I LOST THE ORIGINAL. I HAVE A COPY OF MY FIRST LIEN TITLE FROM WHEN I BOUGHT IT FROM THE DEALERSHIP AND A COPY OF THE FOLLOWING TITLE FROM THE LIEN RELEASE

VIN: 1FAFP42RX4F156080
BUILD #2384
CURRENT ODOMETER READING: 52,xxx
OEM TRANSMISSION: TREMEC 3650, 5-SPEED (SYNCRO TSB HAS BEEN DONE ON IT)
OEM SUSPENSION
OEM WHEELS
TIRES: BRIDEGESTONE TURANZA SERENITY ALL SEASON 245/45/17 TIRES, LESS THAN 1000 MILES ON THEM (440, AA, A) (I’VE BEEN ROLLING THE CAR BACK AND FORTH OVER THE MONTHS THE KEEP FROM FLAT SPOTS)
COMPUTER CODE: TMX2

KELLY BLUE BOOK ON HERE FOR MY REGION (PRIVATE PARTY WITH 52,xxx MILES):
EXCELLENT: $15,335
GOOD: $14,535
FAIR: $13,335

I DERIVED MY INITIAL SALE/OBO PRICE BASED ON:
THE “GOOD” RATING FROM THE KELLY BLUE BOOK
MINUS $4K TO OVERHAUL ENGINE
MINUS $1K FOR MARKET VARIANCE/LABOR TO HAVE WORK DONE
MINUS $500 FOR HAULING/TOW EXPENSE
MINUS $535 MISCELLANEOUS
= $8500 OBO

ONLY 2 MODS THAT CANNOT TAKE THIS CAR BACK TO OEM: HOLES IN STRUT TOWERS FOR STEEDA 2 POINT STRUT TOWER BRACE AND REMOVED OEM SUBFRAME CONNECTORS AND WELDED IN MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS FULL LENGTH SUBFRAME CONNECTORS (POWERCOATED BLACK)

MODS THAT WILL BE STAYING ON HER (IN ADDITION TO THE NEW OWNER RECEIVING ALL REMOVED OEM PARTS):
- custom Mustang Dynameter tune by Jim Paschall of SW Tuning (she will need a re-tune once engine is fixed or a new one is dropped in)
- SCT Xcalibrator 3 handheld flash tuner (I also have the CD that came with it)
- C&L RAI with 85mm MAF (I also have the removed silencer with a OEM replacement K&N filter)
- PHP intake spacer
-MRT MaxFlow H-pipe mid-pipe with cats (304 stainless steel)(the H-pipe is welded together)
- MRT MaxThunder cat-back exhaust with 3.5” chrome tips (409 stainless steel)
- FRPP balanced aluminum driveshaft
- FRPP REM / ISF processed 4.10 ring and pinion
- FRPP axle girdle
- Moser forged 28 spline axles with ABS adapters and studs
- EBC Sport rotors (vented / slotted / dimpled)
- Hawk HPS brake pads
- Maximum Motorsports full length sub-frame connectors (powder coated black)
- Wolfe Race Craft lower torque box plates
- Steeda 2-point strut tower brace
- MRT hood struts
- MGW short throw shifter (orange handle)
- 1” shaker extender (powder coated wrinkle black)
- axle tubes welded and painted
- black painted brake calipers
- Clifford Matrix 10.5x two-way pager / responder alarm
- MGW Mach 1 logo oil cap (chrome) (first design)
- MGW Mach 1 logo cigarette lighter (brushed) (the car has never been smoked in. MGW charges the same price for a blank as a lighter, so I just opted for a lighter)
- Mach 1 logo coin holder delete
- Mach1registry.com Mach 1 logo floor mats
- Mach1registry.com Mach 1 logo door sill plates (brushed)
- Mach1registry.com Mach 1 logo fuel door (brushed ring / brushed black center)
- 8” fixed black antenna
- 5% tint on all glass plus windshield strip
- Sylvania Silverstar headlights
- Sylvania Silverstar foglights
- personalized license plate: MACH1NE registered in OK good until OCT of 2011
- Optima Red Top battery (I have the used/bad Motorcraft battery and shroud as well)
- custom made 6061 -T6 aircraft grade aluminum Optima tray from optimatrays.com, custom made top with the actual Mach 1 logo engraved into it, with “hourglass sides” and a protective clear powder coat
- I also have a brand new un-used Americanmuscle.com chin spoiler (it is not an exact OEM replacement)

HERE ARE SOME PICS. I APOLIGIZE FOR SOME OF THE PICS. I DIDN’T TAKE ANY NEW BODY PICS AS IT IS DIRTY FROM NOT BEING WASHED SINCE LAST OCT, SO SOME PICS ARE OLD, SOME ARE NEW. I TRIED TO LABEL THEM AS SUCH.

Flickr: OSUALUM78's Photostream

THE SHOW SIGN I HAD MADE: MEASURES 54“ TALL BY 34“ WIDE AND ¼“ THICK. THE SIGN WILL NEED TO BE MODIFIED AS IT HAS MY OWNER INFORMATION LISTED AND SOME MODS LISTED I AM KEEPING. IT HAS A MACH 1 LOGO ON THE TOP CENTER AND SCOTT HOAG SIGNATURE ON THE TOP LEFT OF IT. THE SIGN STAND IN THE PIC WILL BE KEPT BY ME

ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE ASK, ANY PICTURE REQUESTS, PLEASE ASK. BODY/EXTERIOR PICTURES RIGHT NOW WILL BE TERRIBLE AS SHE HAS BEEN PARKED IN MY GARAGE COLLECTING DUST AND SHE IS PARTIALLY TORN DOWN

I HAVE 2 ORIGINAL BUILD CERTIFICATES FROM FORD (BOTH ARE ORIGINALS, NO COPIES)

SCOTT HOAG HAS SIGNED THE CAR ON THE INSIDE OF THE GLOVEBOX (ON THE LIP) ON AND THE DRIVERS SIDE MIRROR COVER ON THE VISOR




THIS IS A PURCHASE ONLY, NO TRADES WILL BE CONSIDERED


THANKS

Good luck with the sale!! Oh and any pics of the Cobra? :)

sounds like a great pick up for someone who would want to have some fun with an engine build. If I had $8.5k laying around I might be tempted to pick it up myself, a Mach 1 is on my list of cars I want to own someday. GLWTS tho

I got a few pics on my Termi, but I am on my HTC right now and can't get them on here yet, plus it is parked at my dad's since I've got the Mach taking up garage space (my wife has the other garage spot).

Thanks! Yes, she can be a great rebuild or project car. Because of my pricing formulation (and the fact it is being advertised as OBO), after repair is done, one can get into a Mach for lower than the book value if they want. I estimated $4k for repair, and basically gave another $2k on top of that off. If you can't buy, please spread the word. I can't really tell you how much lower than $8500 I would go to accept a buy offer, but I can say that I've already got one offer in, and it was really low, and I declined it, but I will use it as a last resort if she doesn't sell within a reasonable time frame.

Bump

It should be noted the show sign will not fit in the Mach 1

Bump

Current highest offer is $7250 (maybe $7500 if he agrees to my latest counter) cash via EFT or cashiers check from a guy in the Dallas area.

Anyone care to go higher than his offer for her?

OSUALUM78 wrote:Bump

Current highest offer is $7250 (maybe $7500 if he agrees to my latest counter) cash via EFT or cashiers check from a guy in the Dallas area.

Anyone care to go higher than his offer for her?

Would you take a half eaten box of corn flakes and a post dated check?

03.sonicblue wrote:

OSUALUM78 wrote:Bump

Current highest offer is $7250 (maybe $7500 if he agrees to my latest counter) cash via EFT or cashiers check from a guy in the Dallas area.

Anyone care to go higher than his offer for her?

Would you take a half eaten box of corn flakes and a post dated check?

Sorry, I don't like Corn Flakes.

Per his text last night he agreed to $7500, so consider her sold (I won't until the money hits my account). Gotta work out logistics of payment, and getting her down there. I also gotta go attic hunting for her OEM parts.

Jerry, do you know how to remove/install quadrant and firewall adjuster? I gotta get my Fiore off the Mach and OEM back on the Mach, then get Fiore on the Cobra. I'll pay you in food or alcohol for the help.

Back up for sale. The original buyer fell through.

$8500 OBO

I have way to many vehicles to be able to take it, but If somebody buys it on here I'll hook them up with a 60K mile complete DOHC 4.6L Mark VIII motor out of a 98 Mark VIII that runs perfect for $200.00. Could help with install as well, something to get the new owner by so he/she can build the forged Mach motor back up....

*motor not for sale individually, only goes with the car if a member buys it ;)

Mark8Murder wrote:I have way to many vehicles to be able to take it, but If somebody buys it on here I'll hook them up with a 60K mile complete DOHC 4.6L Mark VIII motor out of a 98 Mark VIII that runs perfect for $200.00. Could help with install as well, something to get the new owner by so he/she can build the forged Mach motor back up....

*motor not for sale individually, only goes with the car if a member buys it ;)

I may already have a potential buyer on here, listed as living in BA, so this person may want to do that. He/She obviously saw my bump because he/she PM'ed me.

That rocks! It will be ready for the new owner whenever, just let me know.

Doesnt the old motor technically still run? I would look into it before I start ripping motors out. you didnt ever really get an idea what it takes to get the old one fixed did you????

Not that the mark motor wouldnt work, but the original mach motor makes the car worth more.... Hell, it might be under 1000 to fix.

Very true, but if the motor repair goes above the new owners budget, this motor is just an option that can be swapped and running the same day while repairs are made to the original.

I agree with what Nolan is saying. A quick motor swap would keep the car running while the original motor can be torn down and analyzed for a proper rebuild.

I agree with what Lee is saying. A fast engine changewould keep the vehicle working while the stock engine can be taken apart and checked out for a proper rebuild.

I agree with what Nolan, Lee and David are saying. A spunky engine swap would keep the Mach on the road while the stock engine can be taken out, inspected and assessed for a rebuild.

I would have to agree with Nolan, Lee, David and Paul. Keep the mach running while tearing down the stock motor and seeing the real issue and then evealuating from there.

now that we're all in agreement.......somebody buy this car!

What does Lee think about buying the car?

Yes, what is technically wrong is unknown at this point. Benji (tech at Bob Hurley) stated the whole cam assembly is toast, and probably the heads too.

What happened. It ran low on oil b/c I forgot to change it for 8k miles. It had around a quart in it when they got her. Originally my handheld gave an oil pump failure trouble code. Upon Benji looking at it, oil pump was fine. Benji did a flush on the engine. No metal shavings came out, but the flushed oil came out very metallic looking. Very metallic. When it was running, the lifters were rubbing (I could hear the lifters metal grinding/rubbing over my exhaust with the windows rolled up). I drove it around 6-8 miles with the lifters rubbing. Not on the throttle the 6-8 miles either, but the engine was still running. How long I drove it with low oil (as in too low to be deemed still enough to be safe) is unknown. Up until August of 2010 (for work purposes, not total driving) I only drove it to work a few miles (around 4 roundtrip), then when I got my new job in Aug 2010, I was driving her 30 miles a day. She went down in early Oct of 2010.

So it does run but sounds like it's about to go huh?

2006GT wrote:So it does run but sounds like it's about to go huh?

It can run, but with full clean oil, the lifters still make a wicked noise.

Does it sound like a modded v6? :)

If not gone... I might call you this weekend to take a look.

2006GT wrote:Does it sound like a modded v6? :)

If not gone... I might call you this weekend to take a look.

I don't know what a modded V6 sounds like, as I've never owned one. I didn't want to waste the time with a V6, lol.

K.

Anyone that wants to look, can. Just let me know.

BTW, the engine never seized.

I would have to agree with what Lee, Paul, David and Jerry are saying. The new owner would have a running vehicle and in the meantime could have the old motor broken down and looked at, assessed, evaulated, inspected for a rebuild...and all the other things other people have already said....

medrick wrote:

What's your email address? I'm gonna email you my Excel file for the build on the Mach I was going to do. I figured you should have it b/c I'm just going to delete it.

So Aaron bought it?

Chupacabra wrote:So Aaron bought it?

theres a possibility there is something in the works.