I'm stupid

Well, I just got back to work from Bob Hurley. The short story for those who didn't see my other thread. I forgot to change the oil for 8000 miles...... and now my block is toast. Benji did the flush, in which the oil came out metallic looking like flake paint. The flush went fine, he oiled it back up, test drove it and okay per him. I pay and drive about half way back to work and the noise comes back. So I turn around and head back. He started it and didn't have to drive it to tell me the block is done. He said the entire cam assembly is toast and the heads probably are too.

He said for him/Bob Hurley to tear down and fix, non-warranty on work and parts, and also in the cost, I might as well buy a new block that would be warrantied.

So I need advice. What would you do? The odo is just past 52K, it's an 04, and everything else but the suspension is fine. I need new shock/struts at a minimum.

I am looking for the best cheapest route to take, and that doesn't necessarily mean go back to OEM block. Aluminator maybe?

If I could afford to, I just prolly get rid of her for a new 2010 GT. That performs better in evry aspect, but no shaker hood

Just get a terminator motor! Alluminator would be sweet too!

So how bad is the block? I mean what needs to be done to get it running again? 4v would be fun in my car! Get with me if you dont fix that motor...

Oh, and sorry this happened. I saw your car at mid america, its sweet!

Damn, that sucks. I would find a termi block and stick it in there. Dakota did that to his bullitt, very sweet set up, super charged with a non functioning shaker. Could do the same to yours and make it a sleeper.

To upgrade however, you need to get ECU, dash and one more thing I think. Dakota (Bullsnake) did it. He would have details of how to make the swap and the amount of labor involved

i very much doubt the block is bad, if you have another car i can tear down your motor if you like. after that you can determine where you want to go from there. personally i think your engines entirely savable. how you ask? its simple, tear it down take it to a local machine shop have them punch it 10 or 20 over and turn the crank. machine the heads and have greg throw it back together. voila! you have a basically new engine. the wonderful thing about engines is unless you crack the block its almost always savable.

Benji said (without knowing exactly since he didn't tear into it too much) that the entire cam assembly is probably toast as well as most likely the heads too.

I want to stay N/A and with a 4V, so I see no need for the Termi block unless is same price. The two are almost identical, but the Termi block has more forged internals due to the supercharger. I would like to stay somewhat OEM too, and I am not a fan of "mis-badging" so no Termi block unless I was going to drop some serious cash and go with a blower or turbo.

But I would like to be stronger.... and obviously add TQ and HP.

Trying to keep cost down as I don't have the money just sitting around that I can dispose of for a new engine. I would have to come up with the $$$$.

I don't want to have to have any majoring 'mating' work done either. I am assuming an ECM recalibration would need to be done b/c of my mods

If I just looked correctly, Ford Racing has my engine full dressed for $6700. Ouch!

OSUALUM78 wrote:Benji said (without knowing exactly since he didn't tear into it too much) that the entire cam assembly is probably toast as well as most likely the heads too.

I want to stay N/A and with a 4V, so I see no need for the Termi block unless is same price. The two are almost identical, but the Termi block has more forged internals due to the supercharger. I would like to stay somewhat OEM too, and I am not a fan of "mis-badging" so no Termi block unless I was going to drop some serious cash and go with a blower or turbo.

But I would like to be stronger.... and obviously add TQ and HP.

Trying to keep cost down as I don't have the money just sitting around that I can dispose of for a new engine. I would have to come up with the $$$$.

I don't want to have to have any majoring 'mating' work done either. I am assuming an ECM recalibration would need to be done b/c of my mods

If I just looked correctly, Ford Racing has my engine full dressed for $6700. Ouch!

that 6700 should be with electronics included, its a drop in and go crate engine not just the engine itself(ill check though)

if you just want to buy an engine then a longblock is what you want.


personaly i find it hard to believe that those heads are completly toasted. you'd be surprised what kind of magic a properly equipped machine shop can do. at worse your blocks bearings are toast and all the running gear in the heads have to be replaced(gaulings a b#$%^)

ARMORINE wrote:i very much doubt the block is bad, if you have another car i can tear down your motor if you like. after that you can determine where you want to go from there. personally i think your engines entirely savable. how you ask? its simple, tear it down take it to a local machine shop have them punch it 10 or 20 over and turn the crank. machine the heads and have greg throw it back together. voila! you have a basically new engine. the wonderful thing about engines is unless you crack the block its almost always savable.

And if you dont go this route here... let me know, because I might be intersted in doing this if you dont!

shodown wrote:

ARMORINE wrote:i very much doubt the block is bad, if you have another car i can tear down your motor if you like. after that you can determine where you want to go from there. personally i think your engines entirely savable. how you ask? its simple, tear it down take it to a local machine shop have them punch it 10 or 20 over and turn the crank. machine the heads and have greg throw it back together. voila! you have a basically new engine. the wonderful thing about engines is unless you crack the block its almost always savable.

And if you dont go this route here... let me know, because I might be intersted in doing this if you dont!

damn you beat me to the punch

im always up for tearing engines down for free. if i had a full set of vernier micrometers and the valve tools i be up for building one too! just not ready to foot the bill for a really good set of micrometers yet


you know you want to tear it down as bad as i do! my engine stands been empty for 3 months since i finished my 460 tear down...sadly that block was truly toasted(3 cracked cylinders).... but for only 50 bucks for the 460 id say i got 50 bucks worth of fun out of it! hahaha

You would still be tearing it down Jared! If he feels more comfortable going new, than I dont mind trying to get a 4V in my GT!

shodown wrote:You would still be tearing it down Jared! If he feels more comfortable going new, than I dont mind trying to get a 4V in my GT!

rofl im in! hell if you ever find a mod engine that needs work im always in!

im contemplating buying most of the tools needed for rebuilding mod engines.

give me a minute im looking up overhaul kits right now

ok a rebuild kits going to run any where from 400 to 1400 dollars depending on what will be needed(this depends on kit type), they will include anywhere from main bearings, cam bearings, pistons, rod bushings,freeze plugs, oil pump, etc. everything needed for a rebuild.

im going to make some calls to see if i cant find you a rebuilt or re manufactured engine for less then what it would cost to over haul yours.

I want a cammed 4V, so if anyone runs accross one that needs some work for cheap, im in!

shodown wrote:I want a cammed 4V, so if anyone runs accross one that needs some work for cheap, im in!

how about a 3v motor? found one for 1900

i have put in calls with several companies hopefully they get back to me soon on a mach 1 motor.

i am the man!!!!!!!!!!! osualum, i pmed you my number, i found some motors for decent prices. you have a few more options now. oh and chris i may have found you a mach motor as well.....

Well, I am not opposed to a rebuilt engine... being mine. I am sure tha block itself is fine. Just the internals are jacked. I really don't want to buy a rebuilt one. I'd rather tear into mine and fix the broken, and build better like more aggressive cams, maybe a little port and polish, etc.... or buy a new warrantied one. ALL options and costs would be helpful , because I really don't know enough about this to be picking parts or engines out. I have the in-laws yard car to drive, so down time isn't a problem, but I don't want to go months into this. A fully dressed crate is easy in all aspects, warrantied, but costly (=$6700?). Just the longblock means exactly what? And cost = ? Trying an Alluminator means exactly what? Etc.

Not to be rude to anyone, but I really don't know anyone on here specifically. So credentials would be helpful in making my decision. You know, is engine rebuilds a hobby or your career? Years experience? Etc. Certainly if anyone one here wants to vouch for your work that would be helpful too. Any recommendations of engine builder would be helpful too.

Cost estimates would be helpful too.

Like I said, I want to stay with a 4V for sure and OEMish like. Stronger and making more TQ and HP would be a plus too. Terms like warranty sound good as well..... but I can't spend the big bucks for this to be done.

hows 4K for a remanufactured engine(thats after you get a 1050 core charged returned when they get your motor) with a warranty sound? i found one in florida.

or a 63k mile motor for 3400 delivered.

i made some calls

im a licensed aircraft mechanic. i have to work on engines every day.

and remanu means exactly what?

Not fond of another engine that is "used" for any cost

Could mine be rebuilt but better (stronger and more TQ and HP) than OEM or a remanu for $4k?

I wish that 5.0 4V would be an easy swap... and cheaper too

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=11829

OSUALUM78 wrote:and remanu means exactly what?

Not fond of another engine that is "used" for any cost

Could mine be rebuilt but better (stronger and more TQ and HP) than OEM or a remanu for $4k?

means its been rebuilt to factory specifications by a company that specializes in rebuilds. they usually carry 3 year warranties. the guy i talked to said it had a warranty backing it but i forget how long the waranty was.

mmmm could be but it would be difficult. the big part is labor. its the one thing i can not accurately predict. i want to say yes but im not sure who would be able to do it in town. ill see if i can find out.

OSUALUM78 wrote:I wish that 5.0 4V would be an easy swap... and cheaper too

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=11829

where theres a will theres a way. i knwo the 5.0s a direct bolt into the 05 and up cars but im not sure how much work would have to be done to fit it to a sn95(somebody will do it eventually)

If this was cheaper it would be a done deal right off the bat

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=9871


except pull those blue cam covers and and replace with my OEM plain aluminum ones, and use my OEM coil covers

ARMORINE wrote:

OSUALUM78 wrote:I wish that 5.0 4V would be an easy swap... and cheaper too

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=11829

where theres a will theres a way. i knwo the 5.0s a direct bolt into the 05 and up cars but im not sure how much work would have to be done to fit it to a sn95(somebody will do it eventually)

Well besides the only thing s I saw making that easy was "Engine mount bosses and bellhousing mount pattern common to 4.6L modular engines."

OSUALUM78 wrote:

ARMORINE wrote:

OSUALUM78 wrote:I wish that 5.0 4V would be an easy swap... and cheaper too

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=11829

where theres a will theres a way. i knwo the 5.0s a direct bolt into the 05 and up cars but im not sure how much work would have to be done to fit it to a sn95(somebody will do it eventually)

Well besides the only thing s I saw making that easy was "Engine mount bosses and bellhousing mount pattern common to 4.6L modular engines."

hehe common maybe, fitting rights another thing. though the 05 and up are pretty much the same, you could mount the 5.0 crate engine into my car in about 4 hours. it would bolt right up to my stock transmission without a problem. the sn95s i dont know about, it could be done and it will be done(mm@ff will probably do it soon) i just dont know how easy it would be, couldnt be too terribly hard though.



here ya go aluminator fun http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_1007_2003_ford_mustang_mach_1_ford_racing_performance_parts_aluminator_crate_engine/index.html

So outside of the tranny swap, that would be sweet for me, except I already have a C&L intake and a PHP intake spacer.. and I'd have to make sure my Steeda 2 pt STB would still fit underneath the shaker assembly (I don't see why it wouldn't)

OSUALUM78 wrote:So outside of the tranny swap, that would be sweet for me, except I already have a C&L intake and a PHP intake spacer.. and I'd have to make sure my Steeda 2 pt STB would still fit underneath the shaker assembly (I don't see why it wouldn't)

it probably would, the 5.0 is similiar in dimensions to the 4.6


EDIT: whoops were you talking about eh aluminator? its the exact same motor as the mach(practically any ways, its more stout) one just has better quality parts, the none supercharged version has a higher compression ratio(10.1 to 1). as for your add ons (intake,spacer) the more parts the merrier!

and i stand corrected the 6700 is for a longblock...WOWZER thats high

yeah, talking about the aluminator article

would love to do that

how much you reckon my current engine is worth, i.e. if I want to do the aluminator, FRPP has MSRP of $6700, but when you click on the product itself, it says $7199

So take $7199 (and tax) - my current engine setup (I keep everything I need and my C&L and intake spacer) = net cost for parts of ____________?

OSUALUM78 wrote:yeah, talking about the aluminator article

would love to do that

how much you reckon my current engine is worth, i.e. if I want to do the aluminator, FRPP has MSRP of $6700, but when you click on the product itself, it says $7199

So take $7199 (and tax) - my current engine setup (I keep everything I need and my C&L and intake spacer) = net cost for parts of ____________?

your engine in its current shape...probably around 1000 to 1800(rough estimate). the needing a rebuild really kills it. its 3400 for a 63k mile used engine(the guy i talked to thinks he can beat that price)

the mach 1's greatest strength is its rarity and that fact that its a 4v motor. i cant believe im saying this buuut 4v FTW! lol