ah the 2.8H by kenne bell

so i was told that kenne bell wouldn't sell the 2.8H mammoth for the 3V unless you could provide proof of a forged bottom end. so i emailed them inquiring about this. this is the email i received in reply........

"ok for the three valve engines we can get the boost down to a safe level but will require a 5" pulley on the crankshaft but the Mammoth kit is a tuner kit so injectors and a tune are not included in the kit."


don't think i'll mind changing out my crank shaft pully in order not to have to upgrade sc'ers later on down the road.

Very weird...that is the exact opposite of what they are telling dealers and posting on their website...you don't really need it unless you are going to go high boost because the engine will blow up...if you can get one more power to you but be careful or you will end up with a very expensive rebuild...

well the worst thing that can happen is my engine build be expedited. :biggrin:

i've looked at their site over and over. can you show me where it says you can't order it for stock 3V's. not saying it isn't there. simply have never seen it the numerous time's i've looked at it.

Good news for you Bob!! Thats pretty cool!

See how it says you will need a taller hood though because the pulley is just so dang big (5 inches)...need to figure that cost in too...

Jeff's came with a the "funny noise you can't find" option too! No charge!

actually got the noise fixed. The crankcase vent tube needs to be open. Kurtis had capped it off when he built the custom air tube. It was building pressure and causing air to be pulled across the rear seal there by causing that awful harmonic noise. He is modifying the air tube to allow the vent tube to breath openly just like the KB air tube did thereby preventing the noise. Really weird huh? He brought the guy who did all the machine work on the engine over to diagnose. He figured it out in no time. Alternatively we could just put a filter on the tube but that would get messy and look bad so he is modifying the air tube to accomodate the crankcase vent tube.

Wow. That's a new one. Glad ya got it fixed. That was a good one.

Damn I would never have guessed that noise was coming from the crankcase and caused by air! Sure sounded like somthing else. I'm glad they got that one fixed. I bet that was getting really annoying!

Bob If you push that stock block to 520 at the wheels you will be living on a prayer. Have you seen the size of the stock rods in these cars. They look like tooth brush handles. No BS. IMO if you are ready to do an engine build or buy a aluminator block then do it all at the same time. Or do the block first. This is the route I will most likely go unless I end up with a centri unit then I might wait. You can get the alluminator blocks very reasonable from Ford Racing. I think like 4300 shipped! All cobra internals will last under that kind of boost. If your like me you wont be able to refrain from pushing it to the limit with the blower. I don't think going over 450 at the wheels will live too long no matter how conservitive the tune.

I agree....450 rwhp is my personal limit. Anything over and your pushing it I think.

yeah i see that most people like to keep it around 450. there are those few that live for years at just over 500 with no problems and that is all because they got a great tune. i have seen the internals and you are right. ford got a little chinsy with them. looks kinda like tinker toys. i think with the trouble that people were having with the aluminator and ford not really doing much to help with the true cost in fixing the problems i'll pass on fords engine products. trust me i've been doing my homework on these for a very long time and i'm not just jumping into something. if i do end up blowing it up then it happens. life goes on and i just build it now rather than later. might end up doing the work myself though which i've done before and have most if not all the tools to do back home.

I say go for it Bob!! You seem to know what you want and can accept the consiquences.....go for it!

anyone know how much drop the urethan engine mounts give you

well looks like i'm either going to have to go with a $500+ hood and then have to paint it or get a k-member to drop the engine. i like the engine drop more as i can of course do the work myself and it will only cost me $460 for the k-member from bmr shipped to my house. it'll help make up a little bit of the weight of the sc'er also.

Hmm its up to you...the K member will help in other areas...but a new hood could also look sweet!

Steeda cowl hood FTW!

I've been curious how the engine drop from a K-Member swap effects pinion angle and driveline geometry? I would assume you would have to adjust the pinion angle at the very least. Also does the transmission have to be dropped some as well to keep everything in line?

now that's a very good question. would have to find out. dammit more research. thanks for the insight david. i'm really trying to stay away from a hood change as i want to keep a stock appearance until everything else is complete and then maybe i'll get bored with the look. i love it looking like it does though. i know the 2.6 is pretty quiet, but i wonder about the 2.8 if it will have the same sleeper effect. muahahahahahaha silly guy in a mustang with rims and a drop whooooooooly crap dammit i thought i had him.