question 4/dbldare

hi dbldare i have the same mods as u only im an auto an have a stall conveter ,i also have the prothane motor mounts the track i run at is only an 1/8 mile i was wondering when you ran the 1/4 mile time you have on your sig ,what was your 1/8 and 60ft times on that run? this info would really help me out ,thanks a million.
ps.i also have Long tube bassani s

60' 1.82
330 5.230
1/8 8.066

These are the times from the 12.61

thanks alot dbldare ...seems i got some work to do somewhere....im running an 8.2 1/8 with a 1.83 60ft. got any suggestions? i should be faster than you actually with these autos.before i went to the track i was really thinkin 12.3 with the mods i have,got to the track an by my 1/8 time im more like a 12.9 what gives?

i bet u have 17 in wheels huh? could they really make that much difference?

i have another question....your r/t is .229....is that a red light start?and if not why?if i get under a .500 it red lights us on the track i go to. anyway if we raced would still been a great race ,you cut a .229 light an i cut a .5036 i almost make up the 2 tenths on the tree. lol ....but really my question is why is your r/t under the .500 without a red light?
ps. about the 2 tenths on the tree thing ...thats asuming your tree is on a zero (.0000) best start an mine is a .500 best start that would give me almost 2 tenths right?
lmao, i have no idea what im talkin about, this was my first time at the track but from the way the lights were explained to me a .500 was a perfect light,so how u cut a .229?

If you cut under a .500 light on a pro tree you red light. We run a sportsman tree or 5/10th's tree. Where there is a pause between each light as they drop. On the pro tree all lights go off at once to green after you are staged. Also keep in mind that the time does not start until your front wheels break the beam. So you could sit there for 2 minutes and your ET would still be the same as if you left on a perfect light. Make sense? Now your R/T does come into play if you are bracket racing and it is calculated into your run.

I do run 17 inch wheels on the rear with BFG Drag radials. My guess is your tune? Who did your tune and what octane do you run? Also you might try adding 5-10 lbs of air to your front tires for less rolling resistance. There are so many variables its hard to say for sure. Do you power stall it on the line before you leave?

yes im having trouble getting a good tune...93 octane is what i run...yes i power stall...yes i understand -i think about the tree ...so if we were side by side the light went green with your r/t an my r/t i would almost make up the 2 tenths difference off the start right?
now my tuning business ...hope u got a min....i was having converter probs...went different places thought it was my tune, come to find out thats just how a converter was suppose to do ....but with thinking i had a prob with the mail order tunes i was getting i finaly went an got a dyno tune .made 320hp and 351ft torque. so then i left and got my mickeys put on ...they knock the nuts right out my dyno tune down low but it never did have as much throttle response as a mail order tune i had gotten. i go to the track and make 2 passes with the mail order an 2 with the dyno tune ....the dam mail order tune beat the dyno by TWO TENTH IN THE 1/8 and i paid 350.00 for the dyno tune isnt that some sht? i was there he really didnt do anything but type in the standard 93 octane tune every sct3 dealer has make a few pulls on the dyno locking the converter at diff mph and said there u go. and me telling him i wanted it top notched ,and ask him why some places had street tune,93 octane tune,and a track tune,he said that was bs you either had the car tuned right or you didnt .....obviously he doesnt,,lol. so now i dont kno where to go from here. and i get my nos installed on tuesday and this guy said come down he would tune my nos and adjust the other tune ...do i go back?????can the place that sponsors this site tune me right?can they mail order me a tune for a 150 shot,and a n/a tune for the track?

First are you sure you want to go with a 150shot?? WOW this is a big shot. Most say a 100-125 shot is about the minimum if you want to keep the rods in the motor. I woudnt trust a nitrous tune by mail order. Kurtis is a very good tuner...I would make an appointment with him and make some dynopulls after the nitrous is installed. You might find that your Fuel pumps are running dang near at full capacity with that big of a shot...makeing it more likely to lean out and go BOOM.

I have ran a best of 12.79 @ 107.3 with the mods in my sig with a 8.1 1/8 with the mods in my sig. Only managed a 8.3 @ 84.41 MPH 1/8 13.0 @ 105.6 Mph 1/4. When it gets a little cooler I should be consistant 12.7-12.8s my MPH at the end of last year was in the 107 range. Going for a 12.6 this year if I can manage. Still need longtube headers, Aluminum driveshaft, Skinnies for the front, and some seat time. mid 12s...shouldnt be too hard..maybe better.

As far as the tree goes. On a .000 light...lets say your reaction time was a .100 and Davids was a .300. You would have a 2 tenth advantage at the start. when you come through the traps lets say you run a 12.8 and david a 12.6 technically you should be cometing through the finish line Dead even. Does that make sense?

I would call Kurtis about your tune and nitrous setup.

By the way...I was racing David when he ran that 12.61. I can almost see my time!! looks like a 8.2 @ 85.4 MPH 1/8 and 12.81 @ 107 MPH 1/4...that was a fun night!

Ok here is how to do the reaction time thing. If you leace the tree with a 0000 light. Perfect and I wait 12 seconds to leave the line. Lets say you run a 12.00 Ok so you made it to the end of the track at the exact same time I leave the line. I run a 12.00. We ran the same time because my time DOES NOT start until I leave the line.

I would look at your tune for some better results.

hey thanks alot guys,great info.......
yea your right on the nitrous grabber thats what they say, but ive also heard just keep the total rwhp under 500 and the stock parts will live...so thats really my goal is 440 to 470 rwhp by tuning the nos on the dyno manny said we would just put on it what the motor wanted...does this sound right? and do u think im on the right track with the total hp. or should i just say no to more than a 125 shot?

From what Kurtis said...keep her in the neighborhood of 430-450 if you want longevity. What you really want to watch are your fuel pumps....is he going to datalog? With 100shot on one of our members his fuel pumps were almost maxed out.

Yes there are those that say under 500rwhp and your ok...thats with a VERY CONSERVATIVE tune. A very good tuner can keep your car alive. Ive heard of cars blowing the motor at very low HP with a bad tuner. So FYI its all in the tune :) You might talk to Chris (AKA DOC) on this forum about his opinion. He was running a 100shot. He had a lot of grimlins with it though...his solinoids kept going out...then there was a wiring issue...never ending...so he ditched the N20 and purchased a Procharger :) hehe couldnt be happier from what I hear

i dont see any mods in your sig grabber....so what were your mads running the times you posted?
and i didnt need to hear that about nos and gremlins ....my other mods have fought me enough..lol shoot i cant even get a dyno tune that will out run a email tune lol go figure the disapointment.

and thats what i was saying on the lights ,...hes 2 tenths of a sec faster than me, but i cut a 2 tenth sec better light so i would have almost won the race.

JLT II CAI, SCT With custom tunes by Archangel Motorsports, Steeda UDP's, Steeda CMCV Delete Plates, Pypes O/R X-Pipe, Roush O/R mufflers, FRPP 410 Gears, Hurst Comp Shifter, CHE LCA's, UPR Swaybar Delete Brace, Eibach Pro kit lowering springs, BFG Drag Radials

Car still has more in it...just couldnt get my 60ft down on that day I ran my 12.7

Long Tube Headers and a One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft should get me where I want to be.

08 stang wrote:and thats what i was saying on the lights ,...hes 2 tenths of a sec faster than me, but i cut a 2 tenth sec better light so i would have almost won the race.

Correct

what he said


The math is hurting my head