BMMC Help

I know most of yall have S197's but see if you can help me / give me proper instruction on what I need to do.

The peeps on the registry have been helpful, but not complete or direct enough for me to understand what I need to do




http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=99990

Check your Alternator. Mine did the same this past summer. Same issues when my alternator was going out. If i recall correctly it was the same code. Battery kept it going until it drained it completely then I lost everything. It may still be charging but not at it's full potential. Find someone that has a volt meter and hook it up to see what kind af volts you are getting. Or check your gauge. The terminators volt gauge was replaced by a boost gauge so I had no clue it wasn't charging. I would start there and see where it leads to.

Your guages sweeping is your battery going bad, it has low cold cranking amps. Get a new battery and drive it and see if those codes come back.

Word.

Thanks. Going to get battery and alternator checked at O'Reilly or some place. No voltmeter here.

Looking into battery replacement cost for Optima

Optima is the preferred brand, but pricey. I stick with motorcraft just to keep the factory look, but that's just me. A battery is not going to change the value of the vehicle so it's more about preference.

So, update:

Went to O'Reilly last night had battery and alternator tested

Battery: so low he couldn't get a reading. First time a car started fine for over 3 weeks and no reading for him (my gauges have been doing the full sweep for about 3 weeks)

Alternator: charging fine.


So, I replaced battery with red top Optima (only $30 more than the Motorcraft factory version). Gotta throw a plastic or metal shim in there as red top is narrower than Motorcraft and can't be held down by factory piece.



No more gauge sweep

Starts up better than before, although there was no starting issues before. Starts faster now.

Drove car last nite in granny mode for at least 30 miles.


Plugged in Xcal3 a few minutes ago.

Still no P0358 code since first clear. I guess my COP is fine then?



Still showing P1000 code though. I cleared the P1000 again. Haven't driven it yet.



So next step if P1000 is reoccurring still?



Get MAF cleaner and clean MAF sensor?

Just had C&L full system installed last April, so I wouldn't think the MAF sensor should be dirty

Anyone have a voltmeter to come over and read my alternator just in case O'Reilly worker is incompetent?



Thanks all that have helped

I found this on another site

"a P1000 is the code you get after clearing the kam, or replacing the battery when the pcm keep alive memory gets wiped out. there is nothing to worry about with that code, it will go away with more driving"

and

"IF the check engine light is not coming on some codes are normal on tuned cars"

Yea I wouldn't worry about the p1000 code, just drive it and don't worry about it unless the check engine light comes on.

Ditto.

I think your good, just drive it for a while and see what it does. So much of these cars are electrical anymore, once you lose a little voltage it throws everything off. If no light comes up, I think your good to go. If you get the check engine light again, we may need to dig deeper.

kewl thanks

apparently there is a "correct" procedure to "cycle" the car in

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

Glad to see you got her fixed up.

OSUALUM78 wrote:kewl thanks

apparently there is a "correct" procedure to "cycle" the car in

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

So much for an easy button

gotta find a way to keep optima in tray safely now. I think I gotta a resolve http://www.optimatrays.com/index.php

OSUALUM78 wrote:gotta find a way to keep optima in tray safely now. I think I gotta a resolve http://www.optimatrays.com/index.php

This should work