mach1 teardown

Well i started tearing apart the mach1 over the weekend. got the motor/tranny pulled saturday/sunday and started to pull everything apart yesterday. Here's some pics so far.












I found some chunks of metal in the pan so this could get interesting.

oh yeah, check out my wicked 4x4 stance now.

Chunks in the Pan, now bueno! Have fun with the headbolts! Let me know if you need a hand :)

Lee's want list:

13" Brake Swap
Mach 1 Shaker Set-up
Mach 1 Hood
C-Pillar Sail Panels
Decklid Blackout Panel
Front and Rear Seats
Radio Bezel
Shifter Bezel

Just saying...

amentowasso wrote:Lee's want list:

13" Brake Swap
Mach 1 Shaker Set-up
Mach 1 Hood
C-Pillar Sail Panels
Decklid Blackout Panel
Front and Rear Seats
Radio Bezel
Shifter Bezel

Just saying...

HIJACK! No No....

No hijack. All things off the car that I want when he abandons the project, LOL

amentowasso wrote:Lee's want list:

13" Brake Swap
Mach 1 Shaker Set-up
Mach 1 Hood
C-Pillar Sail Panels
Decklid Blackout Panel
Front and Rear Seats
Radio Bezel
Shifter Bezel

Just saying...

14K.

Ill even throw in a really nice roller that doesn't have those items at no extra cost. hell, might even throw in a blown up motor with a mint t3650 and an irs.

Mark8Murder wrote:Chunks in the Pan, now bueno! Have fun with the headbolts! Let me know if you need a hand :)

thanks, will do. think i am going to have problems with the headbolts?

medrick wrote: thanks, will do. think i am going to have problems with the headbolts?

Not a problem, just need to take a steroid shot before you try breaking them loose. You'll need a cheater bar with 1/2 drive socket and extension. I've broken many 3/8 drive snap-on extensions. I have the perfect set up if you want to borrow it.

Cool.

Mark8Murder wrote:
Not a problem, just need to take a steroid shot before you try breaking them loose. You'll need a cheater bar with 1/2 drive socket and extension. I've broken many 3/8 drive snap-on extensions. I have the perfect set up if you want to borrow it.

gotcha. i should be ok then. i have impact grade 1/2" sockets and extensions and a pretty good size breaker bar.

i've obviously missed something. did you blow it up

Psycho Bob wrote:i've obviously missed something. did you blow it up

bought it with issues, put it all back together with new fluid and when i started it, it sounded similar to a head tick so i started driving it. A few weeks later, it died on me in traffic and wouldn't restart. Finally got it to turn over in the parking lot and when it did it sounded like the piston and rod decided to get a divorce and arent playing with each other nicely. So now im tearing it down to figure out what it is for sure and go from there.

Yea Bob, this isn't Brittany's Mach, it's a second one (looks the same) he bought from Zac.

medrick wrote:

Mark8Murder wrote:
Not a problem, just need to take a steroid shot before you try breaking them loose. You'll need a cheater bar with 1/2 drive socket and extension. I've broken many 3/8 drive snap-on extensions. I have the perfect set up if you want to borrow it.

gotcha. i should be ok then. i have impact grade 1/2" sockets and extensions and a pretty good size breaker bar.

Your ready to rock and roll then!

i called it. knew it was gonna die. just saying lol

i want pan pictures get that motor torn apart!!!!! if you need help im always around. i LOVE tearing into engines

ARMORINE wrote:i called it. knew it was gonna die. just saying lol

i want pan pictures get that motor torn apart!!!!! if you need help im always around. i LOVE tearing into engines

...................that are wrapped in fuzzy sweatpants

Zing!

hey now i might come fuzzy sweat pants your new mustang's engine muhahahah

pretty sure what you said and what you meant weren't the same thing jared.

so got the pan off and look up in there and what do i see? A snapped rod and spun rod bearing on cylinder 5.

BAM

JB WELD FTMFW!

yeah this one might be a bit much for the duct tape.

Duct Tape AND JB Weld FTW! And spray a little windex on there for lubrication

Need a block or are you going to use the Mark Motor Block?

medrick wrote:BAM

just smooth that out with a die grinder. hell you have to notch the block like that when stroking an engine.

hardly worth it with a WAP block, straight rebuild will be good. turn the crank, put some good rods and pistons in, replace the bearings, save the heads if possible. looking at around 2000-2500 with parts and labor on the block.