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02 Chevy Tahoe Help

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OSUALUM78
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02 Chevy Tahoe Help Empty 02 Chevy Tahoe Help

Post by OSUALUM78 8/8/2011, 6:47 pm

So,

For those that don't know, the A/C on my Tahoe went to crap. Basically a known problem for all 02-04 A/C on pretty much all of GM SUVs/Trucks and some car models from 02-04. The noise, the A/C belt tensioner slapping the bolt that holds it on. The fix. Get a new compressor. The compressor pull too much/does too much work, and the bearings for the pulley fail. Mine never failed, but had enough bearing issue to create the tensioner slap. So I gave the Tahoe to my father-in-law to change all the parts out. He had done it before on his Monte Carlo SS. He got it, looked at it, figured out what needed to be done, and said, heck with it, I'm not doing this. So he took it to a shop. With my $500 in parts they did they job for $206. That includes installing all the parts I had supplied (including the oil and 134) and doing a vacuum and charge on it.

I got it back yesterday, drove it home, and it seemed somewhat fine (I didn't run the rear air). Driving it today, it definitely doesn't as cold (the front system) and the rear just blows air. Not hot, not cold.

Anybody help steer me with what is wrong with it? My father-in-law stated he could have put in too much oil and not enough 134? This guy that did the work didn't replace the rear expansion device, which from what I read, doesn't need to be replaced unless you have to flush the whole system, which he did not do. It all seems fine, as in no noise, fans blow fine, etc. just the front air isn't as cold as it used to be, and the rear air isn't cold at all.

He asked me if he wanted to drive back up (he lives down by Tenkiller) with a loaner car while he drives the Tahoe back to have this guy fix it. I am wondering if going that route is just a big waste of gas both ways, as in someone here in town can help me fix it.


Thanks


Last edited by OSUALUM78 on 8/8/2011, 6:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
OSUALUM78
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02 Chevy Tahoe Help Empty Re: 02 Chevy Tahoe Help

Post by OSUALUM78 8/8/2011, 6:52 pm

Since this issue, here is a list of new parts/work put on:

new alternator
new main serpentine belt tensioner
new A/C belt
new A/C belt tensioner
new compressor (not OEM, Murray brand from O'Reilly. Same warranty as OEM, but it cost $100 less)
new front expansion device
new accumulator/drier
new oil (100PAG, not the spec of 46 PAG, as I read and heard to go with the 100PAG)
new 134+ from O'Reilly (as it is supposed to cool faster and colder than regular 134)

the install guy didn't use:
rear expansion device
o-ring kit
can of A/C flush

Jerry told me the main serpentine belt and water pump are less than a year old
OSUALUM78
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Post by OSUALUM78 8/8/2011, 6:53 pm

Specs I found were:
11 oz of oil (although, some sites listed 8 oz of oil as the spec. The guy at O'Reilly told me the new compressor should have 2 oz of oil in it already)
48 oz of 134
OSUALUM78
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Post by BASixxer 8/8/2011, 7:15 pm

I'd return it... They have lemon laws against that kinda stuff...

LOL, j/p... poor taste, I know...

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Post by ARMORINE 8/8/2011, 7:44 pm

ugh i hate ac systems unfortunately we live in a part of the country where you cant go without it
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Post by cobradoc 8/8/2011, 7:48 pm

It's likely low on freon.With rear A/C I believe it takes 3lbs.Please tell me he used a machine and did not charge it with cans.Should blow about 48 to 50 on a day like today.

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Post by OSUALUM78 8/8/2011, 8:07 pm

cobradoc wrote:It's likely low on freon.With rear A/C I believe it takes 3lbs.Please tell me he used a machine and did not charge it with cans.Should blow about 48 to 50 on a day like today.

I just did a simultaneous laser gun shoot. I was in the Tahoe and my father-in-law was in his 07 Chevy quad cab pickup. He was reading 54 degrees, I was reading 84 degrees on the front and 91 on the rear, both not driving, just sitting at idle. He told me after he picked it up, both the front and rear was blowing ice cold at one point, but then he also said that it didn't feel as cold as it did with the old compressor. Could there be a leak? I bought cans of (per what the label said) 134+, a synthetic type of 134? Supposed to get be colder and get colder faster than regular 134? I am not sure exactly what this guy did, as neither one of us were physically there to watch him. Whether or not if he used the cans I gave him or how much oil he put in.
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Post by cobradoc 8/8/2011, 10:22 pm

Take the cap off of the high side service port (big cap), is there any signs of oil there? Those ports are famous for leaking.The problem with cans is, every time you hook one up you introduce air into the system.It was not as detrimental on R-12 as it is on less efficient 134. The other problem is you can't get all the freon out of the can,so you end up with a unknown charge.84 ain't gonna cut it.All you can do is look for a leak and the pull the system down with a machine and see what was in it.

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Post by Papi 8/8/2011, 11:47 pm

ok.... here my thought and how I'll will do it.

If you are going to put a new compressor you better flush out the system. back flush, forward and then back. you better replace both expantion valves. That has a screen built into them to catch crap that wears from the compressor. If you are changing to a different type of oil you better make sure that it will not damage the seals. different oils will react different and might have a reaction if mixed. will cause leaks from the seals. A new evaporator is a must if doing a new compressor. If your ass is feeling cheap.... just leave it on a vacuum for over an hour.
Now since the Tahoe has 2 a/c systems in it, the focker will use allot of oil. I think it was 12oz If i recalled when I worked on Tahoe before. What ever came out of it, you must replace it plus 1 oz for the accumulator and I think 4 or 8oz for the compressor. I have the correct #'s in my notes at work. Once every all the new parts are on and the accumulator is put on last, then it will get pressure test with nitrogen to check for leaks. No leaks the vent it and vacuum at least 30 minutes to an hour. The longer the better. Fill with correct amount of oil and freon, then test. Temp gauge in the vent and watch the gauges for proper operation. I can usually get it down to 28 - 38 degrees out of the vents. That on the big trucks I work on. I got my little ranger down to 22 degrees and I think I got Jerry's F150 down to 28 degrees out of the vents.
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Post by BASixxer 8/9/2011, 6:38 am

and that's why we have Hector... ;-)

Wish I knew more about air...
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Post by 03.sonicblue 8/9/2011, 11:08 am

cobradoc wrote:Take the cap off of the high side service port (big cap), is there any signs of oil there? Those ports are famous for leaking.The problem with cans is, every time you hook one up you introduce air into the system.It was not as detrimental on R-12 as it is on less efficient 134. The other problem is you can't get all the freon out of the can,so you end up with a unknown charge.84 ain't gonna cut it.All you can do is look for a leak and the pull the system down with a machine and see what was in it.

When I had it, I did replace one of the schrader(sp) valves but don't recall which one it was.
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02 Chevy Tahoe Help Empty Re: 02 Chevy Tahoe Help

Post by OSUALUM78 8/10/2011, 7:57 pm

mustangpapi76 wrote:ok.... here my thought and how I'll will do it.

If you are going to put a new compressor you better flush out the system. back flush, forward and then back. you better replace both expantion valves. That has a screen built into them to catch crap that wears from the compressor. If you are changing to a different type of oil you better make sure that it will not damage the seals. different oils will react different and might have a reaction if mixed. will cause leaks from the seals. A new evaporator is a must if doing a new compressor. If your ass is feeling cheap.... just leave it on a vacuum for over an hour.
Now since the Tahoe has 2 a/c systems in it, the focker will use allot of oil. I think it was 12oz If i recalled when I worked on Tahoe before. What ever came out of it, you must replace it plus 1 oz for the accumulator and I think 4 or 8oz for the compressor. I have the correct #'s in my notes at work. Once every all the new parts are on and the accumulator is put on last, then it will get pressure test with nitrogen to check for leaks. No leaks the vent it and vacuum at least 30 minutes to an hour. The longer the better. Fill with correct amount of oil and freon, then test. Temp gauge in the vent and watch the gauges for proper operation. I can usually get it down to 28 - 38 degrees out of the vents. That on the big trucks I work on. I got my little ranger down to 22 degrees and I think I got Jerry's F150 down to 28 degrees out of the vents.

Hector, can you give me a call whenever you get a chance, 671-6825. Thanks.
OSUALUM78
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Post by Papi 8/10/2011, 10:38 pm

I hit you up Thursday. I might go into work early to work on a head gasket on a Cat. Love diesels.
Papi
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