Read this thread. Pick me. Pick me. Pick me. Pick me.

[OSUALUM78]

So an update / new info thread for those that care, and if you do, thank you!

1. My mom is still basically on her deathbed, still. She's been bouncing between her nursing home and St. Francis ICU. Between my work and time visiting there, a normal life is tough right now. Once she passes and I get over it, I will be able to be a better 'contributing' member to this great club, for all aspects, not just posts on here. I want to be more involved, but just can't right now.

2. 4V's are still > than 3V's

3. My project, affectionately named by me, Black Sunshine, will soon commence. Any White Zombie fans out there? See below for details. I will need any and all help please. For those that do decide to help, I am already going to give you a big thank you now. I've got enough money to spend now, just need to finalize the project.

Project Black Sunshine:
Bettie: 2004 Ford Mustang Mach 1

For those not in the know, back in Oct of last year, my engine got toasted. Completely my fault. Forgot to change the oil in over 8k miles. Whoops. Live and learn, right? Well, according to Benji at Hurley, my cam journals are toast, and my heads probably are too. The exact damage is not known as on now. What is known? I don't want to rebuild the OEM motor. I want to be able to go from mild to stupid, easy. Hence the below choices.

The project: swap out my OEM motor and working Tremec 3650 for:

- FRPP Aluminator Longblock, 8:5 compression (FRPP specs has it also listed as 8:04:01 compression)(not sure on where to run the timing)
- Kenne Bell 2.1L Mach 1 kit: Intercooled, max of 750HP (with 8 rib), Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, cool air kit, 90mm MAF, (Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark?)(not sure on pulleys, 6 or 8 rib kit, see below for further)(not sure exactly what this kit includes. Per emails with a rep at KB, all I will need is new spark plugs = ???)(I don't want their 'Big Oval' throttle body (see my TB pick below) or maybe some of their other optional items like a 'chip')
- NGK TR6 spark plugs
- bigger injectors = what size? (see below for further on this)
- Speed Of Sound 2 gauge A-pillar pod
- Aeroforce Interceptor gauges (x2)
- Aeroforce Interceptor sensors for: AFR, boost, fuel pressure, oil pressure, water temp., (I need one more parameter to measure, as these gauges progressively scan and display 2 parameters at one time)
- Billetflow mono blade TB and plenum for the 03/04 Cobra
- D&D Performance BA72 Magnum T56 package, handles up to 700ft lb TQ, 2.97 first gear, 0.50 6th gear, 26T Input, 31T Output, Aluminum or Steel bellhousing (steel = +$499), includes cross member/mount, reverse inhibitor pigtail, backup light switch pigtail, custom aluminum driveshaft
- MGW short throw shifter for T56
- Not sure on clutch
- Not sure on flywheel
- Steeda 2 point STB for 03/04 Cobra (if it will fit, or will have one made by Kris at K&M mufflers, if he can, or somebody else. I already have holes in my towers from my Steeda 2 point for the Mach, and I want another one on anyways)
- Either Kooks, Stainless Works, or Mac LT headers with O/R H pipe (not sure here. I will only do an H midpipe. I don't want to dump of money a lot here, but I want some quality. I would like features like stainless and ceramic coated)
- Moroso 20548 oil pan
- probably some new COPs
- FRPP "Ford Racing" coil covers
- a few tunes by Greg with my XCal3
- new 6 speed shift knob

I know there is a lot more I am missing on actually doing the swap or parts I am missing. Please help. I don't have all the time to research all of this, nor the brain to be able to understand all of what I do actually read. Example of this: ECU/harness concerns for me? A reading on this = http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=109892&highlight=dragon+throttle+body.

What I also do know: it's been since last Oct since I driven her last. I'm past withdrawal stage. She would be a forgotten memory if I didn't see her in my garage everyday. My bank account balance = enough to do a lot. I would love to get her going again, ASAP.


I know I will need new injectors. I am not sure on the size though, as I am unsure on how stupid I want/will get with this. Ideally, I'd like to be able to go from mild/medium (~400-500 at the wheels) to stupid with a pulley swap and a pre-loaded tune change.... but I want to make sure if I got this route, I will not do harm to any thing by getting everything to handle that much power, even though I won't be consistently running at the high power all the time; i.e. I will need the 8 rib kit, big injectors, and high vol fuel pump and a tune to be able to get stupid, but I won't always want to be in high HP mode, as she will be a garage queen / street car / weekend warrior at the drags till the kick me off, lol... so could I do more harm than good to run 'oversize' everything that won't see the preferred operating range or max capability a lot?

Example (with made up numbers):
I know logic tells you that injectors for example would be best to not be at 100% capacity, so those should be oversized to some degree. So if I would need 45lb'ers to run 400-450 at the wheels (say 400-450 peaks the injectors at 90% capacity), but would need 65lb'ers to run 650 at the wheels (say 650 at the wheels peaks the injectors at 80% capacity), why not just get 65lb'ers for all the time use? But would it be bad to run 65lb'ers at a lower boost level (400-450 at the wheels, say if that runs them at a peak capacity of only 40%)? Same goes for a fuel pump. Could a high vol fuel pump be damaged not being run in it's 'operating' range? Etc.?

Somethings to note: I want this to be as easy of a transition as possible. I don't want to dump money into parts that aren't needed; but I DO want the best quality parts for the dollar, but that doesn't mean the most expensive parts either. I don't want to mess with methanol. She has to be done ASAP so I can get things broke in and be ready for stupid for the June Shelby meet.


I've also got some suspension issues to deal with (hopefully at the same time or soon after), and I'm going to try to slip in a new wheel / tire combo in as well. I say slip in, because my wife can and will probably read this post, so...... ummmm...... if money will allow, with her blessing, maybe this can be done as well. Maybe. Hopefully. Yes, I know, I'm already pushing it. Thanks to the most beautifullest and bestest wifey ever!

I am sure there is more, but it's getting late, and I'm getting tired of thinking, so:



Thanks all, and,

[OSUALUM78]

I forgot to mention:

I need to and will be selling pretty much all of my old unused parts as well.

Any help there will be appreciated as well.

[OSUALUM78]

Also, I will be looking for a SUV as well. I'd prefer 2002 or newer. Something relatively big. Not a Excursion or Suburban big, but not a Honda CRV small. Has to be auto tranny and 4x4. Any help here would be cool too! Want to spend around $6k. Mechanically has to be sound. Mileage doesn't matter as long as it is mechanically sound. Interior would like to be nice. Leather not needed, but preferred if is still in good condition. Most I have looked at with leather have been in horrific condition. Exterior, I don't really care that much except for color. No red, blue or other color. Black, grey, or white will do. It will be parked in my driveway every night. Having a receiver hitch would be cool too. I've got in mind: Ford Explorer, Chevy Trailblazer, Chevy Tahoe, and GMC Yukon. hopefully has no TSB or recall issues, or have been resolved. Thanks.

[ARMORINE]

hey zack, things will get better. yor car will be back together in no time at all

[BASixxer]

What all u got for sale?

[Shelby10']

Very cool build. Hope everything works out!!

[OSUALUM78]

What all u got for sale?

Nothing yet. But I will. Not 100% sure what will go up for sale and what will stay to re-use or what I may want to keep, but my initial thoughts on possible sale items are:

- Old longblock minus accessory kit (pulleys, belts, alternator?)(cam journals are toast, and possibly heads too. No real idea of what is toast. When and if the car was/would be running, you would hear the lifters rubbing. The diagnosis was made from Benji at Bob Hurley at the time on what exactly was or could be damaged. It is torn down to the U & L intakes are off. Tried to pull heads but didn't want to mess with moving/pulling the steering boost assembly). NOTE: Or may sell with accessory kit of what can be replaced by FRPP part number M-8600-A46SC = alternator, PS pump, A/C eliminator (although I don't want to ditch my A/C), and all pulleys and fastners and belts. Crankshaft damper included on longblock, not in kit. Not exactly sure what I will need to kepp and what I can get rid of

- C&L Intake kit. Whole kit, throttle body forward including 85mm MAF. Includes filter that came with the kit and Mach 1 shaker intake shroud, and aluminum inlet tube. The whole gammit. It is an in engine bay setup, not in fender setup

- Tremec 3650 5 speed transmission, unless D&D Performance needs it as a core. If sold, will include OEM shifter and MGW orange handle short throw shifter, OEM Flywheel, OEM clutch and pressure plate. If D&D needs the core, I'll probably still be able to sell the OEM shifter and MGW shifter, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate

- Steeda 2 point strut tower brace for Mach 1, which means to the buyer: only 3 known cold air kits (only 2 still for sale now) will fit underneath it without any modifications to the inlet tube or to the STB. The MRT Streetsmart kit (no longer available), the OEM intake setup, or the C&L kit. The K&N kit fits but you have to warp, melt in an indent to some degree, or move the tubing some if you can. It fits/goes thru the shaker assembly

- OEM throttle body if I replace mine

- PHP intake spacer kit

- OEM intake setup, with drop in K&N air filter

- OEM fuel injectors

- FRPP aluminum driveshaft for 3650 transmission setup

- OEM lower control arms if I get new MM LCAs

Very cool build. Hope everything works out!!

Thanks. Not 100% pinned down to things yet. Been corresponding with another Macher that has done this and more:
"I have glanced at your list. What the heck are you doing, going full race? I have spent near 60k on my Mach including the initial purchase price. I've done everything to it and believe me, there is nothing sweeter than 600+ponies at your disposal. I ended up putting a Cobra crate motor in my Mach. The engine had an April 07 build date and was .020 over on the bore. I upgraded the cams to Comp Stage 3 blower grind, kept the stock 57mm throttle body and the stock intake tubing. I used the KB inside fender air filter kit as KB will not warranty any blower setup if your air intake filter is inside the engine compartment. I also upgraded to a dual core LDC intercooler and it fit with some fitment with my stock front bumper. I used all original blower drive stuff from a stock 03-04 cobra and did the 8-rib setup. I used the stock fuel rails and 60pound Diemen Seka injectors. I added the 03 baffled Cobra fuel tank and upgraded the pumps to the twin GTs and increased the fuel supply line to a dash -8 (1/2 inch diameter) from the tank to the regulator at the fuel rails. I still needed a KB Boost-a-pump. With a 3 inch pulley on the Whipple I was tuned to 620 rear wheel HP on 93 octane. 600 on 91. I NEVER raced my blown Mach at the track but DID race it occasionally on the street. It ate gas like no tomorrow but it made me smile. I have no idea HOW or WHAT has broken. I had my crate motor balanced, studded mains and heads, had the heads ported and the stage 3 cams, upgraded the pistons to Mahle at 9 to 1, replaced the stock oil pump with a Melling billet pump and had the cams degreed all by a reputable builder. That motor lasted about 4k miles. My Mach motor lasted less than that and with the Mach I ran at about 11-13 psi whereas the Cobra about 15-17. I have since sold my slicks and skinnies and still not decided on what I want to do with my car. Its been on jackstands now for 6 months, is paid for but its broke. I also put a tubular k, Fox A-arms, caster camber, headers, midpipe, 410 gears, T56, MGW short throw, clutch, subframe connectors, upper/lower control arms, girdle, rear seat delete, kenwood DVD, powered subs, pillar gauges, etc.

What can I tell you? When you have that much power you really need to cage the car. At those HPs you definitely have a 10 sec car but how much power do you need for the street. Its cool for sure but not sure its worth the expense. As for your list, the TR6s are NOT the right plug for a blower. I'll have to see what mine are but that is not the plug. You will need a B-A-Pump, not more than 60 on injectors and the T56 is the right tranny upgrade. In short, you don't need a single blade T-body or a different plenum. I ran JBA 1-5/8 midlength headers to a modified Mac pro-chamber and Magnaflow catback. Its cool to say "I have all these things" however, having a 65mm T-body doesn't improve anything over my stock 57 and the stock 57 was more drivable. Remember, I had improved/ported/cammed heads, AND a STOCK intake air system AND STOCK FUEL RAILS. You don't need larger fuel rails (I have CPR and spent about 300 bucks on them but never used them). My point is this. You can spend money on stuff that really doesn't make an improvement or an improvement that is noteworthy or can justify its expense. It just sounds coool to say you have "blah, blah, blah" Keep it SIMPLE.

Hope this helps and yes I intend to fix my car but not anytime soon. Its covered in the garage and still looks like new with 57k miles."

.... so I still do have hesitations about my picks, but cannot wait to get it in and done. This guy above, I've personally met, and he is a good guy. He's already done the max N/A route (FRPP heads, FRPP U&L intake or something, stage 3 cams, tune, 4.10's, etc. I'm not exactly sure what all he did N/A before he went S/C, but I know he picked great parts for quality and power and maxed out what he could do N/A, hence why he eventually went S/C, and why I'm going S/C instead of doing an N/A build

[BASixxer]

may be interested in the transmission and driveshaft if I decide to go to a 5-speed... which I will eventually, just not sure when...

[03.sonicblue]

Welcome back again Zack.

I have an 02 tahoe I would be willing to part with if your interested. 02, lt, 4x4. 133k.

[Guest]

yeah, but jerry... he wants to spend 6K.....

Cant wait to see the blown mach1!!!!!!

[OSUALUM78]

Welcome back again Zack.

I have an 02 tahoe I would be willing to part with if your interested. 02, lt, 4x4. 133k.

Can you post up more info about it? I don't know much about GM trim packages. Also, can you PM me what you are looking to get for it.

[OSUALUM78]

may be interested in the transmission and driveshaft if I decide to go to a 5-speed... which I will eventually, just not sure when...

Sweet. Like I said, not sure if D&D gives core pricing, or if they do, which way would be a better deal for me. But for sure driveshaft etc. can be sold.

[OSUALUM78]

yeah, but jerry... he wants to spend 6K.....

Cant wait to see the blown mach1!!!!!!

me neither, but it will basically be a solid axle Termi with the shaker sticking out of the hood, but better than an OEM Termi in terms of the S/C, tranny, flywheel/clutch, etc. I'll leave the Eatons for the birds

[331StrokerStang]

So an update / new info thread for those that care, and if you do, thank you!

- FRPP Aluminator Longblock, 8:5 compression (FRPP specs has it also listed as 8:04:01 compression)(not sure on where to run the timing)Nice choice, could build a motor better and cheaper though.
- Kenne Bell 2.1L Mach 1 kit: Intercooled, max of 750HP (with 8 rib), Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, cool air kit, 90mm MAF, (Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark?)(not sure on pulleys, 6 or 8 rib kit, see below for further)(not sure exactly what this kit includes. Per emails with a rep at KB, all I will need is new spark plugs = ???)(I don't want their 'Big Oval' throttle body (see my TB pick below) or maybe some of their other optional items like a 'chip') If you can, do the Eaton Swap and use a KB 2.8 instead, trust me it will be WORLDS funner.
- NGK TR6 spark plugs
- bigger injectors = what size? (see below for further on this) Since 80's and just a little more, go with them, they will allow room to grow if needed.
- Speed Of Sound 2 gauge A-pillar pod Nice choice.
- Aeroforce Interceptor gauges (x2) Not to sure on this but since they are OBDII port gauges I think you can only run one? I might be wrong though.
- Aeroforce Interceptor sensors for: AFR, boost, fuel pressure, oil pressure, water temp., (I need one more parameter to measure, as these gauges progressively scan and display 2 parameters at one time)
- Billetflow mono blade TB and plenum for the 03/04 Cobra
- D&D Performance BA72 Magnum T56 package, handles up to 700ft lb TQ, 2.97 first gear, 0.50 6th gear, 26T Input, 31T Output, Aluminum or Steel bellhousing (steel = +$499), includes cross member/mount, reverse inhibitor pigtail, backup light switch pigtail, custom aluminum driveshaft
- MGW short throw shifter for T56
- Not sure on clutch My McLeod is awesome, its not as hard as you think it would be and can hold 750ft lbs.
- Not sure on flywheel Spec Aluminum
- Steeda 2 point STB for 03/04 Cobra (if it will fit, or will have one made by Kris at K&M mufflers, if he can, or somebody else. I already have holes in my towers from my Steeda 2 point for the Mach, and I want another one on anyways)
- Either Kooks, Stainless Works, or Mac LT headers with O/R H pipe (not sure here. I will only do an H midpipe. I don't want to dump of money a lot here, but I want some quality. I would like features like stainless and ceramic coated) If you want the best you want Kooks, any H Pipe as logn as its made for LT's will work.
- Moroso 20548 oil pan
- probably some new COPs
- FRPP "Ford Racing" coil covers
- a few tunes by Greg with my XCal3
- new 6 speed shift knob

I know there is a lot more I am missing on actually doing the swap or parts I am missing. Please help. I don't have all the time to research all of this, nor the brain to be able to understand all of what I do actually read. Example of this: ECU/harness concerns for me? A reading on this = http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=109892&highlight=dragon+throttle+body.

What I also do know: it's been since last Oct since I driven her last. I'm past withdrawal stage. She would be a forgotten memory if I didn't see her in my garage everyday. My bank account balance = enough to do a lot. I would love to get her going again, ASAP.


I know I will need new injectors. I am not sure on the size though, as I am unsure on how stupid I want/will get with this. Ideally, I'd like to be able to go from mild/medium (~400-500 at the wheels) to stupid with a pulley swap and a pre-loaded tune change.... but I want to make sure if I got this route, I will not do harm to any thing by getting everything to handle that much power, even though I won't be consistently running at the high power all the time; i.e. I will need the 8 rib kit, big injectors, and high vol fuel pump and a tune to be able to get stupid, but I won't always want to be in high HP mode, as she will be a garage queen / street car / weekend warrior at the drags till the kick me off, lol... so could I do more harm than good to run 'oversize' everything that won't see the preferred operating range or max capability a lot?

Example (with made up numbers):
I know logic tells you that injectors for example would be best to not be at 100% capacity, so those should be oversized to some degree. So if I would need 45lb'ers to run 400-450 at the wheels (say 400-450 peaks the injectors at 90% capacity), but would need 65lb'ers to run 650 at the wheels (say 650 at the wheels peaks the injectors at 80% capacity), why not just get 65lb'ers for all the time use? But would it be bad to run 65lb'ers at a lower boost level (400-450 at the wheels, say if that runs them at a peak capacity of only 40%)? Same goes for a fuel pump. Could a high vol fuel pump be damaged not being run in it's 'operating' range? Etc.?

Somethings to note: I want this to be as easy of a transition as possible. I don't want to dump money into parts that aren't needed; but I DO want the best quality parts for the dollar, but that doesn't mean the most expensive parts either. I don't want to mess with methanol. She has to be done ASAP so I can get things broke in and be ready for stupid for the June Shelby meet.


I've also got some suspension issues to deal with (hopefully at the same time or soon after), and I'm going to try to slip in a new wheel / tire combo in as well. I say slip in, because my wife can and will probably read this post, so...... ummmm...... if money will allow, with her blessing, maybe this can be done as well. Maybe. Hopefully. Yes, I know, I'm already pushing it. Thanks to the most beautifullest and bestest wifey ever!

I am sure there is more, but it's getting late, and I'm getting tired of thinking, so:



Thanks all, and,

Also I didn't see a pump pump, rails, or a regulator on there, FUEL IS IMPORTANT! 03/04 Cobra Tank, or a Sumped Tank, and either twin Wallys or a A1000. FPR should be Aeromotive of Fore.

[OSUALUM78]

So an update / new info thread for those that care, and if you do, thank you!

- FRPP Aluminator Longblock, 8:5 compression (FRPP specs has it also listed as 8:04:01 compression)(not sure on where to run the timing)Nice choice, could build a motor better and cheaper though. Yes, I know, but too much involved to do so. Easier to achieve what I want/make my Mach a Termi replica with that crate motor. I thought about just parting with the Mach and getting a Termi, but still cheaper my way, plus my way with my Mach will resolve all the Termi faults IMO, one of which is the IRS, again, IMO
- Kenne Bell 2.1L Mach 1 kit: Intercooled, max of 750HP (with 8 rib), Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, cool air kit, 90mm MAF, (Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark?)(not sure on pulleys, 6 or 8 rib kit, see below for further)(not sure exactly what this kit includes. Per emails with a rep at KB, all I will need is new spark plugs = ???)(I don't want their 'Big Oval' throttle body (see my TB pick below) or maybe some of their other optional items like a 'chip') If you can, do the Eaton Swap and use a KB 2.8 instead, trust me it will be WORLDS funner. The KB Mach 1 kit is only for the 2.1L and I think pushing the max of what that S/C can go will be plenty
- NGK TR6 spark plugs
- bigger injectors = what size? (see below for further on this) Since 80's and just a little more, go with them, they will allow room to grow if needed. Room to grow to what? Bettie is still a streetcar first. Plus the S/C can only handle 750 per KB. This is a one shot deal. One S/C once. No upgrades to a 2.8L or the Mammoth one. I will need injectors that can be in the right duty cycle range for 450-500 rwhp and 750 rwhp
- Speed Of Sound 2 gauge A-pillar pod Nice choice.
- Aeroforce Interceptor gauges (x2) Not to sure on this but since they are OBDII port gauges I think you can only run one? I might be wrong though. Nope. "Dual Interceptor Option: Two Interceptors can be purchased with a special splitter cable that allows both gauges to operate simultaneously. The second gauge of a dual set in most cases is simply another single gauge programmed to working in tandem. The exception is the SR dual set in which case the second gauge will show a smaller subset of parameters that the main gauge." See video of them in action here: http://www.streetfire.net/video/aeroforce-srt4-gauge-demo_143967.htm
- Aeroforce Interceptor sensors for: AFR, boost, fuel pressure, oil pressure, water temp., (I need one more parameter to measure, as these gauges progressively scan and display 2 parameters at one time)
- Billetflow mono blade TB and plenum for the 03/04 Cobra
- D&D Performance BA72 Magnum T56 package, handles up to 700ft lb TQ, 2.97 first gear, 0.50 6th gear, 26T Input, 31T Output, Aluminum or Steel bellhousing (steel = +$499), includes cross member/mount, reverse inhibitor pigtail, backup light switch pigtail, custom aluminum driveshaft
- MGW short throw shifter for T56
- Not sure on clutch My McLeod is awesome, its not as hard as you think it would be and can hold 750ft lbs. I have heard that McLeod's are awesome too. I also hear Ram are awesome. And I hear Zoom are awesome. And I hear the King Cobra is awesome. Where does Centerforce fall into the mix? Are they awesome too? What about the Fidanza 4.3 ceramic or other model? I'm not trying to be snide or rude, but saying "my _______ is awesome" holds no weight. Saying something like "I drag every weekend the track is open, I'm pushing 900 rwhp with my McLeod, and never have had a problem with it once. I street drive it too with no issues. It is very streetable as well. Everyone I know runs a McLeod too with no problems...." that holds weight
- Not sure on flywheel Spec Aluminum What about Fidanza? Or Fidanza 6.7 or 7.6 twin disc clutch kit (includes pressure plates and both discs and flywheel)
- Steeda 2 point STB for 03/04 Cobra (if it will fit, or will have one made by Kris at K&M mufflers, if he can, or somebody else. I already have holes in my towers from my Steeda 2 point for the Mach, and I want another one on anyways)
- Either Kooks, Stainless Works, or Mac LT headers with O/R H pipe (not sure here. I will only do an H midpipe. I don't want to dump of money a lot here, but I want some quality. I would like features like stainless and ceramic coated) If you want the best you want Kooks, any H Pipe as logn as its made for LT's will work. I ain't shitting gold here. Kooks are expensive. And the Stainless Works ain't cheap either. And I know X's = more power, but I cannot stand the sound of them, no matter the brand. MAC 1 5/8" with 2.5 collectors and it is ceramic coated for $500 at lethalperformance, as an easy example
- Moroso 20548 oil pan
- probably some new COPs
- FRPP "Ford Racing" coil covers
- a few tunes by Greg with my XCal3
- new 6 speed shift knob

I know there is a lot more I am missing on actually doing the swap or parts I am missing. Please help. I don't have all the time to research all of this, nor the brain to be able to understand all of what I do actually read. Example of this: ECU/harness concerns for me? A reading on this = http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=109892&highlight=dragon+throttle+body.

......................

Somethings to note: I want this to be as easy of a transition as possible. I don't want to dump money into parts that aren't needed; but I DO want the best quality parts for the dollar, but that doesn't mean the most expensive parts either. I don't want to mess with methanol. She has to be done ASAP so I can get things broke in and be ready for stupid for the June Shelby meet.

.................................

Thanks all, and,

Also I didn't see a pump pump, rails, or a regulator on there, FUEL IS IMPORTANT! 03/04 Cobra Tank, or a Sumped Tank, and either twin Wallys or a A1000. FPR should be Aeromotive of Fore.

My OEM rails cannot handle this swap out? I've seen some nice rails from Fore. I have no idea on the pump or pumps I guess. Ford GT ones? Could I just do a Termi tank swap out of mine, change rails, change regulator, change injectors, add in KB Boost-A-Pump, and call it done on the fuel system?

What about a Meziere electric water pump and idler pulley? Worthwhile add not just for added HP, but a better quality water pump? What about the oil pump? Any concern there about quality?

Thanks for your reply of input. It was very helpful!

[331StrokerStang]

So an update / new info thread for those that care, and if you do, thank you!

- FRPP Aluminator Longblock, 8:5 compression (FRPP specs has it also listed as 8:04:01 compression)(not sure on where to run the timing)Nice choice, could build a motor better and cheaper though. Yes, I know, but too much involved to do so. Easier to achieve what I want/make my Mach a Termi replica with that crate motor. I thought about just parting with the Mach and getting a Termi, but still cheaper my way, plus my way with my Mach will resolve all the Termi faults IMO, one of which is the IRS, again, IMO
- Kenne Bell 2.1L Mach 1 kit: Intercooled, max of 750HP (with 8 rib), Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, cool air kit, 90mm MAF, (Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark?)(not sure on pulleys, 6 or 8 rib kit, see below for further)(not sure exactly what this kit includes. Per emails with a rep at KB, all I will need is new spark plugs = ???)(I don't want their 'Big Oval' throttle body (see my TB pick below) or maybe some of their other optional items like a 'chip') If you can, do the Eaton Swap and use a KB 2.8 instead, trust me it will be WORLDS funner. The KB Mach 1 kit is only for the 2.1L and I think pushing the max of what that S/C can go will be plenty
Yes, I know Kenne Bell only offers a 2.1, that is why I suggested the Eaton Swap, by using the Cobra's IC and such you can use a bigger blower.
- NGK TR6 spark plugs
- bigger injectors = what size? (see below for further on this) Since 80's and just a little more, go with them, they will allow room to grow if needed. Room to grow to what? Bettie is still a streetcar first. Plus the S/C can only handle 750 per KB. This is a one shot deal. One S/C once. No upgrades to a 2.8L or the Mammoth one. I will need injectors that can be in the right duty cycle range for 450-500 rwhp and 750 rwhp

By room to grow I mean tif you ever want to run E85 or do something bigger like a turbo or F1A.
- Speed Of Sound 2 gauge A-pillar pod Nice choice.
- Aeroforce Interceptor gauges (x2) Not to sure on this but since they are OBDII port gauges I think you can only run one? I might be wrong though. Nope. "Dual Interceptor Option: Two Interceptors can be purchased with a special splitter cable that allows both gauges to operate simultaneously. The second gauge of a dual set in most cases is simply another single gauge programmed to working in tandem. The exception is the SR dual set in which case the second gauge will show a smaller subset of parameters that the main gauge." See video of them in action here: http://www.streetfire.net/video/aeroforce-srt4-gauge-demo_143967.htm
- Aeroforce Interceptor sensors for: AFR, boost, fuel pressure, oil pressure, water temp., (I need one more parameter to measure, as these gauges progressively scan and display 2 parameters at one time)
- Billetflow mono blade TB and plenum for the 03/04 Cobra
- D&D Performance BA72 Magnum T56 package, handles up to 700ft lb TQ, 2.97 first gear, 0.50 6th gear, 26T Input, 31T Output, Aluminum or Steel bellhousing (steel = +$499), includes cross member/mount, reverse inhibitor pigtail, backup light switch pigtail, custom aluminum driveshaft
- MGW short throw shifter for T56
- Not sure on clutch My McLeod is awesome, its not as hard as you think it would be and can hold 750ft lbs. I have heard that McLeod's are awesome too. I also hear Ram are awesome. And I hear Zoom are awesome. And I hear the King Cobra is awesome. Where does Centerforce fall into the mix? Are they awesome too? What about the Fidanza 4.3 ceramic or other model? I'm not trying to be snide or rude, but saying "my _______ is awesome" holds no weight. Saying something like "I drag every weekend the track is open, I'm pushing 900 rwhp with my McLeod, and never have had a problem with it once. I street drive it too with no issues. It is very streetable as well. Everyone I know runs a McLeod too with no problems...." that holds weight You kind of came off as a dousher on that one, you asked a question and I answered it. What more do you want?
- Not sure on flywheel Spec Aluminum What about Fidanza? Or Fidanza 6.7 or 7.6 twin disc clutch kit (includes pressure plates and both discs and flywheel)
- Steeda 2 point STB for 03/04 Cobra (if it will fit, or will have one made by Kris at K&M mufflers, if he can, or somebody else. I already have holes in my towers from my Steeda 2 point for the Mach, and I want another one on anyways)
- Either Kooks, Stainless Works, or Mac LT headers with O/R H pipe (not sure here. I will only do an H midpipe. I don't want to dump of money a lot here, but I want some quality. I would like features like stainless and ceramic coated) If you want the best you want Kooks, any H Pipe as logn as its made for LT's will work. I ain't shitting gold here. Kooks are expensive. And the Stainless Works ain't cheap either. And I know X's = more power, but I cannot stand the sound of them, no matter the brand. MAC 1 5/8" with 2.5 collectors and it is ceramic coated for $500 at lethalperformance, as an easy example [Well in the question you put Kooks as the Example lol. Kooks are the Best but Mac is also a great brand, those would be fine [/b]
- Moroso 20548 oil pan
- probably some new COPs
- FRPP "Ford Racing" coil covers
- a few tunes by Greg with my XCal3
- new 6 speed shift knob

I know there is a lot more I am missing on actually doing the swap or parts I am missing. Please help. I don't have all the time to research all of this, nor the brain to be able to understand all of what I do actually read. Example of this: ECU/harness concerns for me? A reading on this = http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=109892&highlight=dragon+throttle+body.

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Somethings to note: I want this to be as easy of a transition as possible. I don't want to dump money into parts that aren't needed; but I DO want the best quality parts for the dollar, but that doesn't mean the most expensive parts either. I don't want to mess with methanol. She has to be done ASAP so I can get things broke in and be ready for stupid for the June Shelby meet.

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Thanks all, and,

Also I didn't see a pump pump, rails, or a regulator on there, FUEL IS IMPORTANT! 03/04 Cobra Tank, or a Sumped Tank, and either twin Wallys or a A1000. FPR should be Aeromotive of Fore.

My OEM rails cannot handle this swap out? I've seen some nice rails from Fore. I have no idea on the pump or pumps I guess. Ford GT ones? Could I just do a Termi tank swap out of mine, change rails, change regulator, change injectors, add in KB Boost-A-Pump, and call it done on the fuel system?
I'm about 95% sure that your stock rails won't fit, you can get cheap rails that flow good also. For fuel Ford GT Pumps in a Cobra tank would be perfect, but go return style if you can.
What about a Meziere electric water pump and idler pulley? Worthwhile add not just for added HP, but a better quality water pump? What about the oil pump? Any concern there about quality?
Your stokc water pump should be sufficient. And your oil pump as long as its Melling or somethign other than stock will be fine.
Thanks for your reply of input. It was very helpful!

[Papi]

Welcome back again Zack.

I have an 02 tahoe I would be willing to part with if your interested. 02, lt, 4x4. 133k.

Here's some pics....

[BASixxer]

Not bad...

[BMMC1]

Tis a clean ride.

[Shelby10']

Very clean....Ive ridden in it :)

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