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Shelby10'
ARMORINE
RaceRedFiveOh
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Post by RaceRedFiveOh 3/9/2012, 7:43 pm

First question: Turbo vs Twin Turbo? Also what are some good turbo kits?
Second question: I know I should prolly stay under 10psi on the stock motor, but with forged internals whats safe?
Third question: If I were to get forged internals, should I go ahead and get a stroker kit? What are the cons?
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Post by ARMORINE 3/9/2012, 10:57 pm

1# depends on application. what are you going to be using this for? racing? drag? road race?

2# with forged internals 1600 HP is the safe limit of the block. durability is an issue with strokers at ultra high hp levels. with moderate boost 600-800hp will be both streetable and durable.

3# for the price strokers are mildy over rated(mod motors only). limited in rpm due to side loading. you can spin the S#$% out of a stroker but it wont last forever. any time you increase side loading you increase engine wear. theyr worth it if your going for major power and dont much care about lifespan. you can make em last if your gentle on them. its a tough call personally id stick to stock stroke and pour on the boost. just personal opinion though
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Post by RaceRedFiveOh 3/10/2012, 12:45 am

Road/Drag, I heard that twins boost faster but loose top end power.

So with forged internals, fuel upgrades, and a solid tune, I shouldn't need to worry running say 15psi?
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Post by ARMORINE 3/10/2012, 5:38 pm

twins come in faster that is true but recent improvements in rotor design has greatly improved spin up time. the biggest thing to know is the bigger the turbo the longer it takes to spin up. ie the more rpm you need to come into full boost.

15 PSI is a walk in the park for a built set up. there are cars out there running 20-30 PSI. just takes money.
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Post by RaceRedFiveOh 3/10/2012, 8:25 pm

Just making sure the stock block is good for that much boost, I figure the guys running 20+psi are using motors built from bottom up.
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Post by Shelby10' 3/11/2012, 12:22 am

Barrett, the block itself can take 900+hp....the internal components (IE Pistons, rods, etc) can not. The stock internals tend to exit the block after about 500rwhp or so.

You will need to also lower the compression of the motor if your looking for high boost. This will help stave off detonation. With stock compression and 20psi you are looking at race gas for it to be possible without killing the motor.
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Post by BASixxer 3/11/2012, 10:37 pm

I would also suggest doing a .020+ bore on the cylinders. Chances are you will need to have the block honed anyway, so might as well get a little extra umph out of it.
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Post by Psycho Bob 3/11/2012, 11:59 pm

i'll likely just go with the frpp stock compression myself. with the eforce the stock compression and pump gas will pretty much max the sc'er anyways

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Post by RaceRedFiveOh 3/12/2012, 2:34 am

So in the end would it be better to just buy a built long block?
MMR 3v 1000hp - $6599
Or atleast just build it myself? (not that I know how)
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Post by Psycho Bob 3/12/2012, 5:51 am

mmr has a pretty bad rep. sure you'll find people that are satisfied with them, but you'll just as many or more that got shafted by them. that fact alone will have me suggesting that you don't use them. disclaimer is that i have not personally used them, but because of others issues i won't use them.

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Post by RaceRedFiveOh 3/12/2012, 9:33 am

So whats a good company? Just trying to get an idea of prices.
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Post by 07Shelby500 3/12/2012, 6:13 pm

Go see Kurtis at archangel.
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Post by RaceRedFiveOh 3/12/2012, 8:01 pm

Hah well its not like ill be doing this anytime soon... just thinking ahead.
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Post by BASixxer 3/12/2012, 8:17 pm

yea I would definitely look to have it built locally. Plenty of options, and if something goes wrong they are right down the street, not halfway across the country.
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Post by Shelby10' 3/12/2012, 9:03 pm

Kurtis can forge your block and have it ready for whatever you can throw at it most likely for a lot less than that MMR quote.
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Post by cobradoc 3/13/2012, 12:10 am

There really is no need for a stroker in a force air application. You will see a increase in torque, but it comes at a reduction in longevity for a mod motor. The pistons travel too far out of the bottom of the cylinder and become unstable, killing the skirts and lower bore.
There is really no limit on boost for a built motor, within reason. I personally like a little less boost and more compression. It spools faster and drives much better off boost. With the ceramic bearing technology we have a single will come on pretty fast and is easier to package.
Stock bottom ends are taxed even at low boost, the rods just flat suck. It not a matter of if, it's a matter of when it goes boom.

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Post by RaceRedFiveOh 3/13/2012, 12:38 am

Oh another question since you all seem to know what your talking about, I've heard conflicting views on this.

Say you have a turbo, you want it to spool fast, 4.10s put you in a higher rpm however some say that if you have a lower gear it will spool up faster in a lower rpm because it's more load.
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Post by Psycho Bob 3/13/2012, 12:39 pm

the only thing i know about that is this. everyone i've heard of going much faster (1/4mile) than i ever intend on going are using 3.55's or higher gears (lower numerically) with a turbo setup.

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Post by cobradoc 3/13/2012, 6:41 pm

Load creates exhaust velocity. Velocity makes boost. Typically forced induction makes torque, more torque = less gear required.

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Post by Psycho Bob 3/14/2012, 12:21 am

you don't need higher gears for a sc'er though because you aren't needing the exhaust for boost. i'm going to stick with my 4.10's for now, but after driving it around for a while and at the track i may go with a shorter gear now that i'm going to have the TR6060.

the ratio's in the 6060 make the 4.10's closer to 3.55's

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