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motor turns over. no fire.

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Oldokie
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Post by 07Shelby500 2/22/2012, 11:46 am

If u have spark and fuel then id bet you timed it 180* off on the exhaust stroke.
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Post by ARMORINE 2/22/2012, 11:51 am

im hoping i did. i really am. but ive gone over the instructions for timing the motor several times today. even posted up on s197forums. i cant find any screw up on my part from th instructions and the guys on s197 said i timed it right from the pictures ive posted. i dont get it.
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Post by 07Shelby500 2/22/2012, 12:28 pm

The crank can be at top dead center at both the intake and exhaust stroke. You need to be on the intake stroke. I bet it just needs re timed with the motor 180* the other way.
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Post by ARMORINE 2/22/2012, 3:13 pm

had it at TDC on the number one cylinder when i set the timing. crank timing mark at 6 o clock.
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Post by cobradoc 2/23/2012, 12:04 am

Timing marks are correct. Do you have oil pressure when cranking? Oil pressure is what operates the phazers, stock cam phazers have over 30 degrees of control on cam timing. Make sure all galley plugs are installed. Verify spark.

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Post by ARMORINE 2/24/2012, 8:21 pm

spark and fuel delivery varified, timing is correct......have low compression.... going to get a compression tester, spray some oil and try to get the compression up high enough to make a bang.
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Post by shodown 2/24/2012, 10:03 pm

did you remember to add oil?
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Post by ARMORINE 2/25/2012, 7:17 pm

yes 6 quarts. its not that kind of a problem. if its what he thinks it is when i puled the head the coolant washed down the cylinder walls so the rings quite seating. if i can get oil back on them then we can get it started. if not its gonna have to come apart.
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Post by Papi 2/26/2012, 2:13 am

Seriously... a test light. never use a test light on computerized equipment like that. use a multimeter. You can burn up diodes. I learn that from A/C class. Also, did you check to see if you cam sensors are plugged in on the cam synchronizer? I almost missed them when I install the cams on my car.
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Post by ARMORINE 2/26/2012, 5:03 pm

No diodes on the engine side. It's all after the fuse box. Test lights are standard equipment for autos. Easiest and fastest way to check injectors and ignition. Light at 6-12 volts. They won't allow a short cause theyll burn out. Atleast the good ones will. That and I can't find my multimeter ;(

Use a spark tester on the ignition. Positive spark. Engines Definitly got low compression it didn't sound any different when we turned it over with the spark plugs removed.
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Post by Papi 2/26/2012, 5:48 pm

use a test light on an airplane and see what happens.
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Post by ARMORINE 2/26/2012, 6:02 pm

Airplanes are wired differently then cars
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Post by Oldokie 2/26/2012, 6:50 pm

How would you know? Oh, you were that scary geek working on planes I was flying on over at the Christian center. I count myself lucky to have escaped with my life intact....
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Post by ARMORINE 2/26/2012, 9:46 pm

hahah i was that geek working on the engines! muhahahah
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Post by 03.sonicblue 2/26/2012, 9:50 pm

Given the current circumstances, thats not very reassuring. lol!
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Post by Papi 2/26/2012, 10:00 pm

zingggggggggggggggggggg!
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Post by Oldokie 2/27/2012, 9:42 am

Imagine my terror when I discovered who was working on the engines of the planes I was flying in!
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Post by ARMORINE 2/28/2012, 6:18 pm

well i think the heads are going to have to come off. i ran a compression test. O pressure on 1 and 5. didn't bother checking the rest. going to go get the stuff to run a leak test before i start tearing it apart. somethings gones way wrong just gotta find what.
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Post by BMMC1 2/28/2012, 6:47 pm

You did remove the screwdriver that was sitting on the block deck before you put the head on, right? That could be your problem.
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Post by 07Shelby500 2/28/2012, 7:24 pm

Turn the crank to TDC and see where the valves are opening and closing. I still think it's just timed wrong.
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Post by shodown 2/28/2012, 8:12 pm

Ok, throwing this out here cause i dont understand timing andsuch.

The day i came over to help install the rockers you stated it was already timed. But during our install of the rockers you turned the motor a few times at the crank. It keeps being brought up, so would that have changed your timing??? Because you turned the crank, but nothing else turned...right??? Since you had no timing chains on an such, you were only tirning the crank.

Would that not have messed with timing
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Post by BMMC1 2/28/2012, 10:35 pm

YES.
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Post by 03.sonicblue 2/28/2012, 10:52 pm

hammer
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Post by Papi 2/29/2012, 12:06 am

I hope you just didn't bent your valves now.

Greg Greg Greg !!!! help the kid out!
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Post by BASixxer 2/29/2012, 9:46 am

Barrell of Monkeys
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Post by ARMORINE 2/29/2012, 2:34 pm

chris it had the chains on when you came over and was already timed. lol!


it leaking from somewhere because it has zero compression. even if it was mistimed i should get some compression. only way i could have mistimed it is 180 degrees off. only way that would have happened is if i had it backwards. the pictures are up above. i timed it right.

im gonna start running leak tests tommarow. im honestly at a loss here. iver never had a motor have 0 compression. the leak test will find the problem. really hope its nothing too serious.
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Post by shodown 2/29/2012, 4:45 pm

I guess they were on... Duh
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Post by BMMC1 2/29/2012, 5:30 pm

Spark plugs are in ? check the obvious first. :)
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Post by 07Shelby500 2/29/2012, 6:57 pm

If your 180* off the compression stroke is happening with the intake valves open rather than closed. Thus no compression. This is my theory.
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Post by cobradoc 2/29/2012, 9:04 pm

0 compression is usually a bad thing. Most likely bent valves. At any point during assembly did you feel resistance in turning the crank. Please tell me you rolled it through after assembly. Have you checked compression on any other cylinders? Exhaust valves usually kiss first as the are out toward the ring land and have less clearance in Mod motors. Where did the heads come from? Coolant will not wash down the cylinder walls and lose compression like fuel will.

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