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Tires rubbing...solutions?

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Post by Corepuncher 11/12/2011, 1:25 am

Welp, got my 315/35's on today. They look great, stick out just a tad but kinda like it. Everything was fine until I hit a bump/dip in the road. A brief tire rub. The edge of my rear fenders (which are at least folded/smooth), will briefly rub about 1/2" in from the outer tire edge. If I drive carefully and slow it does not occur. This was also with a passenger for more weight, although curiously, it sounded like it only happened on driver side.

So...I am trying to find a solution to this that involves keeping the tires. If my rear was lifted about 1/2", it would not rub at all. What do you think? Should I get a different set of springs maybe, or, is there such thing as a "spacer" that could do the trick?

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Post by Leonard 95 11/12/2011, 8:08 am

I would get a adjustable panhard bar and make sure the rear is end level side to side first.
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Post by 07Shelby500 11/12/2011, 10:36 am

+1
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Post by BMMC1 11/12/2011, 11:51 am

+52
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Post by Psycho Bob 11/12/2011, 2:49 pm

absolutely need an adjustable panhard. other than that maybe you need to have the wheel backspace changed to move them in a little.

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Post by Corepuncher 11/12/2011, 8:16 pm

Yes I wish I could move them in more....there is room.

I am not familiar with what part might be adjustable. We are talking about somehow moving the part where the wheel bolts up to inward somehow?
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Post by Corepuncher 11/12/2011, 8:25 pm

Just researching a little.....bump stops???
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Post by 07Shelby500 11/12/2011, 9:40 pm

An adjustable panhard bar will make it possible to center the axle perfectly in the chassis. Often as the car is lowered the rear end shifts slightly to one side (i believe the drivers side). The addition of wider tires typically makes the issue more noticeable.
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Post by Corepuncher 11/12/2011, 11:34 pm

It does rub on both sides, so even after panhard I assume it will continue.
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Post by 07Shelby500 11/13/2011, 10:23 am

Most likely.
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Post by Corepuncher 11/13/2011, 5:59 pm

I would love to keep these tires...but the slight rubbing is a problem. If I drive carefully, they do not rub at all. It's only if I go too fast in a dip or speed bump. Basically if I'm gonna sell them I need to do it now before they get any marks on them. I may have to just bite the bullet and buy the two new ones. I can get 295/35's I"m sure they will work better than 315/35's. 295's will be 7 mm shorter tire height, not to mention they will come in a little so that the fender might clear it completely.

Hey anyone want to buy a 200 miles set of Michilen Pilot Super Sports? 315/35R20. I just want to get my money back I paid for them, so 600 local pickup or add shipping. By the way, they grip awesome! I'm very pleased.

These tires are 461 a piece not counting shipping at discounttire: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findTireDetail.do?tc=MMIHZM&c=2&rcz=73072&pc=35591&ar=35&rf=true&cf=false&rd=20&sw=false&rc=OKOINT&cs=315

Same price at Tire Rack: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Super+Sport&partnum=135YR0PSSXL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

So 922 + shipping...600 is a steal!
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Post by Psycho Bob 11/13/2011, 10:13 pm

i would look and see if there is a local place that can do work to wheels. probably be cheaper than buying new tires especially for that price. on top of that you would still be able to keep your wider tires

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Post by Corepuncher 11/13/2011, 10:38 pm

I have not had the greatest luck with ANY local places when it comes to ANYTHING having to do with my car LOL. It took me two days and 4 places just to find a place that would put my tires on! And even then they screwed up my TPMS. I told the guy that I wanted them taken out because they are banded type and DO NOT WORK with newer valve stem computers. I even wrote it on a note...REMOVE. He said he would try to get them to work. So I'm like, ok, nothing to lose. I get the car back and he says "Sensors work fine just bring it to FORD have them program them". LOL. When he said he would try to get them to work, I assumed he meant get them to ACTUALLY work in my car. So now I still have those things in there, and I'm not gonna waste another day and risk someone scratching my rims even more just to get those stupid things out. I was gonna sell them since they are worthless to me. Oh well.

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Post by BASixxer 11/13/2011, 10:45 pm

May seem like a stupid question, but how much material is there? Can you roll the fenders?
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Post by Corepuncher 11/13/2011, 11:20 pm

Yeah someone mentioned rolling the fenders...but man, what about paint? Won't it crack? I am scared to do it also don't want to decrease value of car. I was thinking of some oversized bump stop maybe lol. Researching now.

If I can sell these 315/35R20's for about 600 + shipping, then I'll just pony up the additional 250 to get 295's which should fit. Those two tires cost 920+ brand new...so surely someone will snag them from me. They only have like 250 miles on them.
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Post by Leonard 95 11/14/2011, 12:02 am

Give evolution performance a email or call see what sizes they run on those rims. Those are basically the rims they sell, see if they have made a 315 work before selling them.
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Post by Corepuncher 11/14/2011, 12:45 am

Leonard 95 wrote:Give evolution performance a email or call see what sizes they run on those rims. Those are basically the rims they sell, see if they have made a 315 work before selling them.

I would, but I think I pissed them off one time when I called them inquiring about some parts that I was not going to buy from them. lol! The guy started chewing me out "wait a second, why would I help you if...." then I just hung up. I guess I thought they would be "nice".
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Post by OSUALUM78 11/14/2011, 3:56 am

have you tried poly iso's to bring up the height some? (in lieu of getting rid of tires or springs)
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Post by BASixxer 11/14/2011, 9:52 am

that's a possibility.... do your springs have ISO bushings?

The downside with an oversized bumpstop is that when you do hit a bump your chassis is gonna smack that, and it could be very uncomfortable...
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Post by Corepuncher 11/14/2011, 10:46 am

Would you guys have a link to the part you are talking about? If I could calibrate it to hit JUST right before fender touches tire, I think I would not feel anything 95% of the time.
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Post by BASixxer 11/14/2011, 12:47 pm

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=514_21_90&products_id=988

that's the one from maximum motorsports. But I am not too up on the GT500s since I don't own one, so someone else may have a better opinion on brand preference...
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Post by BASixxer 11/14/2011, 12:48 pm

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Post by 07Shelby500 11/14/2011, 12:53 pm

I think he is referring to polyurethane spring isolators.

Just do a search from either prothane or energy suspension for spring isolators. I'm not sure how much difference in ride height you'll get though. My thought would be an adjustable rear shock set up to control the jounce. I know the D-Spec tokiko is adjustable in the front but not sure in the rear. I'm sure someone makes them. Or air bags.
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Post by BASixxer 11/14/2011, 1:01 pm

whoops, my bad.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.6106

I am unsure if they differ from the 09-11. I know the springs are different, don't know if the isolators are. That is what is pulling up though...
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Post by BASixxer 11/14/2011, 1:03 pm

when I put these on mine they raised the car about 1/4" of an inch.

Those are showing as a universal application, for $10 you can't really complain...
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Post by Corepuncher 11/14/2011, 1:45 pm

Yeah cool...a quarter inch MIGHT just do the trick! Will that part replace an existing one, or used in conjunction with? I have not messed with the suspension yet, but I assume it's pretty straight forward once you get the wheel out. I wonder if they have some basic instructions with them.
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Post by Psycho Bob 11/14/2011, 1:49 pm

the tokico d-specs are adjustable in front and rear. i'm very happy with them also.

i messed one of mine up when the allen key broke off while adjusting them. sent them in and even though i messed them up they replaced them w/o any issues

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Post by BASixxer 11/14/2011, 1:50 pm

Generally they replace the ones already in use. Wouldn't think stacking them would be a good idea.
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Post by OSUALUM78 11/14/2011, 3:19 pm

07Shelby500 wrote:I think he is referring to polyurethane spring isolators.

Just do a search from either prothane or energy suspension for spring isolators. I'm not sure how much difference in ride height you'll get though. My thought would be an adjustable rear shock set up to control the jounce. I know the D-Spec tokiko is adjustable in the front but not sure in the rear. I'm sure someone makes them. Or air bags.

Yup. Polyurethene isolators. Not to get all Jarrod 1.0 (because I cannot say for sure, it is only from my readings) poly iso's are thicker than stockers and will raise the ride height up compared to stockers. How much, like David posted, no one will know, plus the ride height will settle down after the poly's are worn in. But if you are looking to gain height to stop a rub issue, this is a cheap and easy resolve to try. Like others have suggested (way outside of my realm of knowledge) you may have another issue existing that poly iso's will not resolve. Like Lee stated, do not stack them. Either use stocker top and bottom or poly top and bottom, or combo: stocker/poly top and bottom or poly/stocker top and bottom. These are what the spring "cups" into.
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Post by Corepuncher 11/14/2011, 3:21 pm

LOL, I "chatted" with a person at Energy Suspension, and he simply said "We don't carry anything for a GT500, please consult dealer about your problem" Well...I asked him, I thought your product says universal? Then he said he does not have measurements for anything that new, I asked him what about 2010? no. 2009? no. lol. They are apparently years behind.

Anyway, I might get those for short term solution, but I may also look into that adjustable shock solution David and Bob. I kinda like that idea, gives me leeway in the future as well. Now I just need to find rear only sets.
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